Solenoid / Starter on Xflow

[DW]

I've replaced the Solenoid and am getting 2 problems:

1. When I turn the key in the ignition it doesn't always do anything - I get a click and that's it. Try again and it's OK.

2. This pm, went to start it and the starter motor won't stop whirring, even when the engine fires up, the starter is still going. Take out the battery cut-off key, and then put the key back in and the starter continues to whir, even though no key in the ignition.

 

Followed advice on other trheads - I've checked the wires on the solenoid and they don't appear to be touching.

 

Ideas?

 

David

1700XF - http://groups.msn.com/WilkesCaterhamPages

[Ken Sailor]

I'm surprised that no ones answered this. It's an interesting problem and I'm curious about the solution.

Is it possible that your ignition switch has suddenly gone wonky so the the starter solinoid is now always on whether the key is in or not?

 

Ken Sailor

[Chris W]

DW

 

One possible cause is that the solenoid contacts are not disengaging and thereby switching the starter motor ON permanently. This could be caused by the contacts being stuck mechanically inside the solenoid or the very thick red cable from the battery to the solenoid contacts somehow making contact with the solenoid activation contact (usually a small wire with a push on connector).

 

Chris

 

2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

 

Edited by - Chris W on 26 Jul 2004 23:10:27

[Taran Las]

I've replaced the Solenoid and am getting 2 problems:

1. When I turn the key in the ignition it doesn't always do anything - I get a click and that's it. Try again and it's OK.

---

 

Have exactly the same problem. Recon starter last October - less than 300 miles.

 

 

Philip. D. Owen

 

[Joe 90]

Could be the ignition switch itself.

 

SEP field working, not spotted in 102,000 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 10 June

[Taran Las]

When I replaced the starter motor I stripped the switch and it was fine - the starter worked OK for a few months. I seem to recall someone mentioning an air equalisation hole - I wonder if this is getting bunged up - Xflows are pretty good at producing black mist .

 

Philip. D. Owen

 

[Chris W]

The air equalisation hole is on the solenoid. The pluger inside which operates the contacts etc is such a close tolerance fit that there needs to be a hole through which it can suck air when it moves.

 

Chris

 

2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

[xflow7]

Hi David,

 

When I first built my 7, my starter did the continuous-whirring thing on about the 3rd attempt to start. Scared the bejeezus out of me (didn't immediately know what the noise was). No battery swtich to cut it off, eiter.

 

Fortunately a buddy was over who had seen it happen before and he promptly whacked the solenoid body with a wrench. All better and never happened again in the 3 years since.

 

Apparently it's not terribly uncommon for new solenoids to stick slightly the first time or two they actuate, and they just need a little "persuasion"

 

Good luck.

 

Dave

[charlie_pank]

Both of the symptoms you are describing are consistent with the a "sticky" solenoid. When it just clicks and fails to start, this could be because the cylinder and piston are "sticky" and the piston not being immediately "thrown"; when the starter motor stays engaged with the ring-gear of the flywheel this could be because the cylinder and piston are "sticky" so the solenoid disengages but the spring cannot push the piston back because it is "stuck". I suggest that you dismantle the solenoid and give the cylinder and piston a good clean up with wet and dry. You could probably do a lot worse than looking at the instructions for the K series starter dismantling.

[DW]

Thanks guys for the posts. I've taken the solenoid apart and put it back together and the problem seems to have gone away....presume it was therefore sticking - certainly consistent with what you all describe. I note on other threads that some use a bit of grease on the plunger, but others suggest not. Any thoughts?

[charlie_pank]

I've rebuilt the solenoid on both my K-series 7 and also on my wife's Pug 306TD, the approach I take is to clean it all up, then cover the plunger in grease, then wipe it all off again. This is in an attempt to leave the tiniest amount of grease still on the plunger...

 

Glad that the rebuild has sorted you out.

[Chris W]

I use the same method too. I have dismantled and cleaned about 6 or 7 of these for fellow 7ers.

 

Chris

 

2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

[SimonRHC]

Hello,

it does sound like a sticking / welding contact problem that is very common if the application is not quite right.

i'm always reluctant to say any thing about starters as there are so many areas that can go wrong, starting at the battery and it's condition through to the engine cranking and fireing characteristics.

the best way is to progresivly work your way along the system checking the terminals and continuites.

make sure the 7 is in neutral and you are away form belts.

Greasing the solenoid plunger is fine as long a you do it sparingly with a grease that is not too temperature sensitive.

Hope I've been of some help.

i seem to be the only 7 owner i know not to have problems (1600VX).

Cheers

Simon

(Starter Motor Designer!)

[Joe 90]

I suggest graphite instead of grease as the dirt doesn't stick to it. Locksmiths should stock it.

 

SEP field working, not spotted in 102,000 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 10 June