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Undoing flywheel bolts..


shn7

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Sorry memory a bit wrong. Bigger than M7. M10 infact!

For a VX XE

47lbft stage 1,

30 deg stage 2

15 deg stage 3.

 

On a K its 63lbft

 

On an XF its 50 to 54lbft.

 

That is pretty tight but was fine by wedging the ring gear with 2 suitably placed screwdrivers. Didn't feel like it was going to break anything!

On the K overhaul .pdf I have (do you have a K?) it shows a homemade tool with a tooth that

bolts on and engauges the flywheel.

If you don't have these manuals I could send them to you if you send my your email addr.

 

Hants (North) and Berkshire Area club site here

My racing info site

here

 

 

 

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Quick tip before you sling the engine back in *idea*

 

On my very first engine out job with my new 96 VX HPC, I found when I removed the clutch cover that someone had put spacers (just ordinary sized washers)between the clutch cover and the flywheel. When I was buying new flywheel and clutch bolts at the local VX dealer I asked the head mechanic guy if this was normal for an XE, and he told me it definitely wasn't (also not in the Haynes).

 

Since then I've had the clutch on both with and without spacers (including Smiffy's that we put back in yesterday) and I can tell you that the spacers are there for a purpose *smile*. With the spacers installed the clutch arm sits nicely in the centre of the bellhousing cutout allowing you maximum clutch adjustment and also I think allowing the clutch cable to pull from a better angle. Without the spacers you can still get the clutch to operate properly but the clutch arm is positioned too close to the engine side of the cutout and compromises the amount of adjustment which is possible.

 

Paul

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Hi, I have seen a neat trick with a bent valve, if the valve is heated and bent through 90 degrees it works as a perfect restraint on the fly wheel, without the need for wedges...

 

Anthony

 

Raceco can on and it looks stunning

 

 

 

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