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Oil change


Graeme Smith

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Always managed to aviod changing the oil myself until now. A quick look at the job last night suggests the car is very low - I guess I'm going to have to put it on axle stands (or two axle stands and a jack, as I've only got two)? And there's no sign of a drain plug (VX1600) - I guess you just whip the whole sump off and let the oil go everywhere...?
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Graeme,

Jack the front of the car up a bit just to get some clearance. The sump plug is on the drivers side of the sump towards the radiator end and is on the side of the sump but close to the bottom. I 'think' it's 19mm but could be wrong. You should change the oil filter as well. Can't believe you've raced on every track in the UK, done over a 100 races and never changed the oil youself 😬

 

MikeW

1600 VX Black/Ali Race No 110

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Shame on you Graeme!

 

Drain plug is on the side of the sump on the offside. To avoid putting mine up on four axle stands, I put the car on my trailer. That allowed me to get to the sump plug at the side, and allowed enough ground clearance for something to catch the oil. To replace the filter I jacked the trailer up slightly (with a couple of axle stands for good measure) - that allowed enough room to slide underneath to get to it.

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Graeme

In addition to what's already been said, try to tilt the car towards the sump drain plug, this will drain more of the old oil (& gunge/grot) out of the sump. Also let it drain for as long as possible.

I also change the filter when changing the oil, although there is a thread running on Tech talk which suggests otherwise. If you do change the filter you will need a strap spanner to remove the old one. Smear some oil onto the rubber seal on top of the new filter to ensure it tightens up correctly. After refilling with oil, check for leaks when you start the engine. Check the level after the engine has been running for a few mins, do not rev the engine until the oil pressure is up.

Good luck. E-mail if you have any questions.

Mark

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You could always have used the 'old' method of knocking a screwdriver thru the filter and using this as a lever to turn the filter....it always works for me. Anyway, you have it solved now.

 

Sorry cannot help with torque.

 

Paul

 

SL No.174

Member No.109xx *cool*

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Sump plug torque in my book is "tight but not too tight". I've still got the scar from undoing it at Silverstone when it had been overtightened, and I smashed my hand into the garage floor as it came loose. The doctor was slightly surprised to get his first patient of the day an hour before testing began.

 

Key with the filter is just to hand tighten it, and then it's no problem with one of those strap-type spanner things.

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I thought the rule for filters was finger tight plus a quarter turn. Or as tight as slightly oily hands can do! As for removal, the 3 prong spider works every time. Had to buy one of hese for the first oil change as the usual strap did not work and the chain started to cut through the canister - So I even tried a screwdriver and hammer (as the canister was damaged anyway). In the end, the 3 prong spider was bought and used ever since.

 

Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!

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