Jump to content
Click here if you are having website access problems ×

De-Dion Ears - How to tell the camber setting?


jonhill

Recommended Posts

I've spec'ed my SLR with CR500s. For these tyres I need more camber than for ACB10s, and therefore different ears to what an SLR would normally be supplied with.

 

My ears have .25 stamped on them. What camber is this, and is it for ACB10s or radials?

 

Thanks,

 

Jon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

These are 0.25 degrees, suitable for radials or crossplys. Radials will also run on the 2.0 degree ears (assuming you have the 2 pot rear calipers) or alos radials only 1.5 deg if you have the Sierra single pot slide calipers on the rear.

 

I have a set of used 2.0 degree ears if you are interested in trying a set out.

 

 

 

Arnie Webb

The Fat Bloke blush.gif in a not so Slow Vauxhall wink.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stewart,

 

On one of the long edges.

 

Arnie,

 

Sounds like I have the ears supplied as standard for ACB shod cars, but IYO the amount of -ve camber for radials is a personal preference anyway.

 

I thought the general consensus was more -ve camber was required for radials. This is what Caterham told me too, when I was deciding about tyres. I should have checked immediately upon receiving my kit, rather than just before I was about to bolt the ear on!

 

I'll give C. a call, see what they say.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They range from 0.25 deg to 2.0 or even 2.5 (I didn't ask that high).

 

Standard de Dion has 1.5.

 

Running slicks or ACB10's you want less camber so 0.25 would be right. Radials on the road are good with more. If you are swapping wheels at the track then somewhere in between say 0.5 or 1.0.

 

The number is stamped on the inside (not clever since you have to remove caliper hub and ear to see). If you have big rear brakes then the caliper is bolted into the top of the ear if I remember correctly.

 

I had more camber on the NSR than on the OSF. Both the de Dion tube and the ears

are manufactured to a certain tolerance. If you get the worst case (adds up) on both sides you can have what I had. This is bad luck... ("why does it always rain on me"). Fixed with new ears in my case. They are about £30 each new for standard brake ears, I don't know about the big brake ones.

 

I wonder if a good machine shop could shave them to spec cheaper... probably not.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My 8 inch ACB10's on 2 deg ears wore to zero tread on the insides and 3.5mm on the outsides in 1700 all road miles.

 

I would therefore recommend ACB10's are run on .25 deg ears only.

 

On a Vaux I found 2 deg on the rear and 4 deg on the front gave the best balance on Radials (A008R)

 

I think the minimal camber on Slicks and ACB10's only applies to the rear. I one looks at Cobblers F1 car especially when he drove the Bennetton the front wheels had so much camber (must have had 5 deg min) the front wheels were nearly horizontal - I assume F1 tyres are crossply construction???

 

 

 

 

 

Arnie Webb

The Fat Bloke blush.gif in a not so Slow Vauxhall wink.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As far is changing the camber is concerned, the easiest way is to put some spacers [washers] between the back of the ear and the end of the DD tube, this is easy and effective, but you do need a camber guage, [sp.?guague/gaugue/gague, oh bu**er it] a camber measuring instrument, to set it up properly, I borrow one from my local garage.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

PAul,

 

If you do this you severly compromise the strenth the ear gains from being clamped to a flat piece of rigid steel. The ears will crack. I tried this myslef some years ago and only a big off at Brands taught me its a bad idea! DIdn't hit anything, but the ear was in two pieces when removed from the car!

 

 

 

Arnie Webb

The Fat Bloke blush.gif in a not so Slow Vauxhall wink.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have waffer thin shims in mine to get to ~2.25 degrees, maybe I'll check them more often. I know other folks who have run shims for years.

 

There's no reason why having the ears reground to a different angle should be bad as long as it's done properly. I'm sure they all start out as a parallel-sided block.

 

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1.5 or 2 degrees is measurable I would have thought with a good protractor.

You could always do a bit of trigonometry and measure the two of the sides and work out the angle on a sci calculator. The wedge does not go all the way to a point but you could extend this with string or measure parallel to the flat edge.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the advice Arnie, I'd better check my ears and put on a pair that have got the correct stamp on them.

 

Anybody know what camber I should be using on the back when using 16" 205/50 Yoko 032's? These are comparitivley wide, and logic tells me they should be about 1 - 1.5 degrees. I could be wrong though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...