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Dizzy removal and replace on R500K


nic.day

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  • Leadership Team

And when reassembled make sure the plug leads are definitely on the cap fully and it's all clean. It's not unknown to suffer arcing between the closest lead and the tower.

It's the same setup for all EU2 dry sump K-Series with the tower fitted, not just the R500.

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Was bloody fed up down there BUT the positive was I found the issue because of it.

I got home alright, and new leads, cap etc ordered - So fingers crossed this will solve it.

The question is now - what can I put round the tower to stop it happening in the future - someone must have come up with a solution

May be a nice curved piece of CF as a barrier between the tower and the cap

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Not carbon fiber Nic, its conductive.

Some insulating material would be better, but if the leads are in good condition it shoun't be an issue.

Derek

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Thanks Chris - yes got home alright. As I said the mystery is solved (I hope) of what was causing the misfire, not starting and strange symptoms - I had even talked to Troy when I arrived about what it could be.

Gaffer tape solves lots

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Just fit new leads and go from there. The insulation is likely breaking down with the current finding an easy way to earth, it does happen sometimes but generally the tower / dizzy setup is fine without any additional insulation material.

Stu.

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So we know it was a arcing from the King lead to the tower - got it started with the help of gaffer tape and got me home. Ran alright once it was hot and the plugs had cleaned themselves.

Ordered new cap, rotor and leads from Redline on Monday and just changed them all just now - car is struggling to start. Black smoke from the exhaust so its flooded. 

Turned off and shut garage door before I swear more. 

I am now fed up and don't know what to look at next - it use to start on the button

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I am pretty sure I have, I marked each one in its position with tape and its number before I took anything off. Then matched and checked twice - I double checked that everything was pushed on tight too.

My main suspect is the connection to the coil - it just felt not as snug as the rest. Going to try the old lead (which it the gaffer covered one!!!!!) and see if that makes a difference.

 

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yes I've had all of the mentioned. Yes dizzy is a pain to get off.

Currently I use a bit of cut to shape old coolant hose (the big one) stuffed (difficult) between the tower and the lead heads. I think it's working. 

I am wondering how one gets access to the coil to replace the lead, it looks grievous.

Anthony

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Just a quick note on the subject, several times I have seen distributor caps with the central carbon brush/pillar broken off when the cap has been removed past a dry sump tower, if this goes unnoticed it can cause misfires, so make sure the central brush is in good condition before refitting the cap. The brush can catch on the rotor arm as the cap is removed.

There are two ways to go wasted spark, either with a coil pack bolted to the back of the head or by using an EU3 cam cover and coil packs. Depending on the ECU you have it will need an extra wire to fire the second coil and a change to the ECU config to support twin coil rather than single.

Oily

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This morning - king lead changed back to the old one - no joy

Dizzy cap changed back (and checked as per Oily suggestion) no joy

Car flooded now - so walked away

Its trying to start- I guess the plugs are black - so will take them out and clean them up before trying again later.

Any other suggestions???

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