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Alternator failures Crossflow


Golf Juliet Tango

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  • Area Representative

Hi Stephen,

What is the failure mode? Just not charging?

If you can get it apart the regulator is available separately Lucas Regulator ACR

I hope on a cross flow you don't have to remove half of the cooling plumbing to get at it.

Regards

Derek

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you don't have to remove half of the cooling plumbing to get at it.

Fortunately not Derek, you can just (only just) get it out between chassis & primary.  It's one of those, "one moment you think it won't go then its out" things.

Two previous alternators are at Unit Exchange to be fixed. Burton Power will receive this one, I'll ask for a refund rather than replacement. Whether refurbishing is cheaper than replacement we shall see. It is however, responsible.

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Lucas alternators are spec-ed with light duty diodes.  If you run the battery down, or have lots of electrical load, and the alternator has to run at full output, one or more diodes will pop in short order.   This is a standard, no extra cost option.  You can fix/replace the alternator but, if the root cause is still there, they will pop again.

If you only have light loads, and the battery ran down on you, then by all means repair/replace the alt and be careful next time to charge a low battery before running the engine.  Otherwise, I would fit another alternator.  There are lots of options out there.

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Thanks.

I'm running a 60A alternator on a Crossflow, carbs, Aldon distributor etc so it isn't under heavy loads. LED lighting (apart from the instrumentation). That's plenty of headroom, you really can't draw a lot with a Crossflow.

The original lasted over a decade, the two most recent 30 months, then 12 months. Poorer quality now, in my opinion.

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  • Leadership Team

Stephen,

Burghfield Alternators near Reading are excellent for refurbishment: Unit 2, The Forge, Reading Rd, Burghfield Common, Reading RG7 3BL

I went through a phase when I was cooking an alternator every other trackday on my Crossflow Seven.  I had Burghfield fit a slightly larger pulley to reduce the maximum rotation speed, lagged the exhaust primaries, and fitted a nylon bracket from Wilcox and I don't think I've had a failure in circa 8 years.  The trouble is, I can't tell you which of these three actions did the trick!

 

 

 

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I’ve been relatively lucky, I think: only had a couple of alternator failures (Valeo on a XFlow) in donkey’s years.

Had altogether more trouble with the mountings though, several broken or worked loose or had a bolt break in the block. The standard mounting bracket, whilst looking substantial, never seemed to be much good at resisiting vibration; whether design, application or welding being not up to snuff I don’t know, but several other XFlow/BD users had the same experience

I went the full Wilcox route - nylon strap (as Michael, above) ‘floating’ on a blank-one-end spindle through the water pump (to lessen the chance of any vibration loosening and snapping that bolt off in the block - that breaking on a trip or a track day is a real nuisance) - and the alternator mounted on a wide metalastic bush inside a bracket (like a suspension bush but longer - just have to remember to earth the alternator separately). That solved everything - one of the most worthwhile ‘upgrades’ I’ve found.

(Also, keep spares of the UNC bolts - finding those in hurry whilst away will only get harder.)

Some Escort rally cars, using a XFlow or a BDA, had the diode pack (?? is that what it’s called?) mounted remotely and so better isolated from the heat of the exhaust - but means more wiring to be insulated.

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