P2138 / P2106 Suzuki engined cars (Solved)

[Julian377]

Are there any 160/170 owners out there that have had experience with the following codes:

Car Scanner ELM OBD2
DTC report
Selected brand: Suzuki

============1==============
P0102
Raw code: 0102
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Mass air flow (MAF) sensor/volume air flow (VAF) sensor - low input

============2==============
P2138
Raw code: 2138
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Throttle position (TP) or Accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor/switch D/E - voltage correlation

============3==============
P2106
Raw code: 2106
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Throttle actuator control (TAC) system - forced limited power mode

This all started on the way back from a drive, stopped off at a pub for lunch and driving back we noticed the engine warning light on and the rev limiter stopping anything over 4-5000 RPM.

I noticed this is not the first time that the MAF had reported an error from the paperwork from the previous owner, it seems CC had it reported to them so they put in a new air filter and cleared the code. I did read a suggestion that using MAF sensor cleaner would be a good idea to try which I did yesterday, I took it out cleaned it and put it back in the car. The MAF error code #1 has now disappeared but the other 2 are still remaining. I’ve tried resetting the pedal by disconnecting the battery for 5 mins, then key turned on electrically push the pedal 3 time and switching off but to no avail. 

Any thoughts? 

 

[aerobod - near CYYC]

I would check the Throttle Position Sensor and wiring to it, if possible at the ECU connector, but at least at the TPS end. A voltmeter with back probing into the wires at the connector, checking that it gives a full range with smooth voltage changes as the pedal is moved slowly.

Not sure whether it is a falling or rising TPS voltage system on the 160/170, but typically it is going to be between 0.0 and 1.0V at one end of the range and 4.5 to 5.0V at the other end, with a somewhat proportional change in voltage between the two extremes.

[Julian377]

Thanks Aerobod for the suggestion. 

In the end I went for broke and took every connection apart on the harness and used contact cleaner and dielectric grease to clean everything before reassembling, I mean EVERYTHING! Throttle body sensor which I took apart and used PCB cleaner that I had laying around, pedal connector, all of the plugs that I could find, ECU out and cleaned the contacts, the fuse box and relays all pulled out, cleaned and greased. I must have spent 2 hours, some of the plugs were quite tricky positions but I took my time, ensuring the connectors had a good soaking and dried before a light smear of grease before reconnecting. 

Finally connected the battery, small payer to the car gods and turned on the ignition. The engine warning light came on, the scanner was telling me the same error message. I had just given up at that point until I remembered that I hadn't tried clearing the codes. Clear all, rescan, no error codes 

I would definitely recommend cleaning connectors and getting a good dielectric grease, even for people building new cars, my terminals looked clean, not tarnished or anything that would suggest the problem could be down to bad connection but yet that is what seemed to be the issue. 

 

 

[Geoff Brown]

Ingress of moisture? Different engine, DURATEC, but had a stuttering engine so checked the relevant stuff then doubled down on the connections.

Connector pins to the coil overs were slightlycorroded. Lightly polished then Eloctrolube applied. Fault disappeared. 

[John Vine]

#4:  Good tip, Geoff.  What Electrolube product code did you use?  CTG?

JV

[PeterM]

I experienced both these issues on a. 160 

I renewed the MAF and still have the old one you can have if you want a 'spare'. However, if you look at the engine side of the filter box you will see that it is an uneven, 2-bolt plastic to plastic joint, which I think allows dust debris to bypass the filter.This then impinges on the MAF elements and upsets the setting. I renewed the joint using sealer and never had the problem again.

The drive-by-wire throttle system mismatch (which meant I had no control over the throttle whatsoever) occurred on a damp misty morning in the Picos as we were just heading off to get the ferry home. After a panicky few mins the heat of the engine seemed to dry it out and it was OK after that. I had another occasion where the AA man took off the throttle body electrical cover to clean and spray the connectors therein; so I think you are on the right track with what you have done. 

[Julian377]

Thanks Peter, I certainly think that moisture ingress has had a part to play with my issue. I found an interesting article on dielectric grease, because it's non-conductive there are myths that it will negatively impede electrical connections which is not true, contact is still contact but the grease will protect against corrosion. I only used a small amount and made sure the contacts had a proper clean with some PCB cleaner I had knocking around. I probably didn't have to go as mad as I did with pulling out the ECU and fuse board but I was going for the Nuclear option, whatever electrical gremlin was causing my problem seems to be gone now.