Julian377

Boot bag and rain cover now sold. Half-hood still available. Thanks to everyone who has taken an interest - Julian.

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Hi, after selling my Caterham I have the following bits for sale. Oxted Black Mohair Half Hood, for S3 with standard rollbar, measurement 86cms, brand new never used - £160 + postage Oxted Black Mohair Boot Bag, never used still in package. - £160 + postage Softbits Long Nose Shower Cap - only used in garage, never been wet - £70 + postageThanks. Julian.

Sadly I need to let go of my 160. Finished in Aston Martin apple tree green with black leather interior. This car has had 2 former owners, not including myself. The paint is pristine, sprayed by ex Caterham factory paint shop in December with new stone chip guards and door protectors. This 160 comes with a host of extras over the standard car, lowered floor on the drivers side for extra leg room, spare wheel and carrier, full vinyl soft top (hardly used), roof bag, Oxted Trimming mohair half-hood (never used), Oxted boot bag in mohair (also never used), Softbits long-nose rain protector, ITG air filter because you can never get enough of the turbo wastegate sound. This car makes everyone just smile and gets a great reaction, though they think it is a classic as the dateless registration gives the car some personality. November 2016 registered. 7182 miles I'm looking for any good offer over £19,000

Thanks Peter, I certainly think that moisture ingress has had a part to play with my issue. I found an interesting article on dielectric grease, because it's non-conductive there are myths that it will negatively impede electrical connections which is not true, contact is still contact but the grease will protect against corrosion. I only used a small amount and made sure the contacts had a proper clean with some PCB cleaner I had knocking around. I probably didn't have to go as mad as I did with pulling out the ECU and fuse board but I was going for the Nuclear option, whatever electrical gremlin was causing my problem seems to be gone now.

Thanks Aerobod for the suggestion. In the end I went for broke and took every connection apart on the harness and used contact cleaner and dielectric grease to clean everything before reassembling, I mean EVERYTHING! Throttle body sensor which I took apart and used PCB cleaner that I had laying around, pedal connector, all of the plugs that I could find, ECU out and cleaned the contacts, the fuse box and relays all pulled out, cleaned and greased. I must have spent 2 hours, some of the plugs were quite tricky positions but I took my time, ensuring the connectors had a good soaking and dried before a light smear of grease before reconnecting. Finally connected the battery, small payer to the car gods and turned on the ignition. The engine warning light came on, the scanner was telling me the same error message. I had just given up at that point until I remembered that I hadn't tried clearing the codes. Clear all, rescan, no error codes I would definitely recommend cleaning connectors and getting a good dielectric grease, even for people building new cars, my terminals looked clean, not tarnished or anything that would suggest the problem could be down to bad connection but yet that is what seemed to be the issue.

Are there any 160/170 owners out there that have had experience with the following codes: Car Scanner ELM OBD2 DTC report Selected brand: Suzuki ============1============== P0102 Raw code: 0102 ECU: Engine control unit Status: Confirmed OBDII: Mass air flow (MAF) sensor/volume air flow (VAF) sensor - low input ============2============== P2138 Raw code: 2138 ECU: Engine control unit Status: Confirmed OBDII: Throttle position (TP) or Accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor/switch D/E - voltage correlation ============3============== P2106 Raw code: 2106 ECU: Engine control unit Status: Confirmed OBDII: Throttle actuator control (TAC) system - forced limited power mode This all started on the way back from a drive, stopped off at a pub for lunch and driving back we noticed the engine warning light on and the rev limiter stopping anything over 4-5000 RPM. I noticed this is not the first time that the MAF had reported an error from the paperwork from the previous owner, it seems CC had it reported to them so they put in a new air filter and cleared the code. I did read a suggestion that using MAF sensor cleaner would be a good idea to try which I did yesterday, I took it out cleaned it and put it back in the car. The MAF error code #1 has now disappeared but the other 2 are still remaining. I’ve tried resetting the pedal by disconnecting the battery for 5 mins, then key turned on electrically push the pedal 3 time and switching off but to no avail. Any thoughts?