Oil temp & pressure combo advice

[Temple Cloud]

In most of my previous cars I've had an oil temperature gauge and I've got used to waiting till the oil temp was in the zone before revving the engine anywhere near it's limit so it was a surprise to me that Caterham never felt it a good idea to include one too, especially for the ones doing track days or racing.

However, I've seen a couple of cars that have them fitted by the owners and so I'm looking for some advice so I can get one fitted over the winter in my 1995 1700 Crossflow. I'd like one that does both temperature and pressure and that can just replace the standard pressure one that I have. Any advice as to how to fit would be great too.

Thanks

[Jonathan Kay]

Would you rather do it that way than have a single gauge that shows oil temperature and water temperature?

And do you want them all showing at once or would you be happy with a switch to show oil temperature when needed?

And if it's a new gauge how important is it that it resembles the others?

Jonathan

PS: If you'd like the factory wiring diagram for your Seven please send me a Private Message with your email address.

[ScottR400D]

As JK is alluding to, it's a relatively cheap and easy job to install an oil temp sensor a bit of cable and a switch and flick between water/oil. 

[Guy Lowe]

I don't like (trust) electric oil pressure gauges so converted to mechanical and took the opportunity to fit a combined gauge. Got the complete kit & lots of good advice from Matt at THINK AUTOMOTIVE Also C&LSC members get a discount from Think . THE RANGE OF GAUGES HERE

[rkeywood]

I'd go mechanical with a combined pressure / temp gauge and remote warning light - most crossflow track cars were like that in the early '90s when I changed mine. If you want to go with this then the temp sensor location depends on your setup. I have a dry sumped engine and use the sender connection on the remote oil filter head. What arrangement do you have for the pump / filter / oil 'stat / oil cooler? The pressure connection usually goes on the end of a tee piece in the block in place of the current sender with a separate pressure switch on the side connection wired to a dash warning light. An adjustable (0-50 psi) switch is handy. Think Auto looks like a good shout - the gauge looks like the Mocal one at a reasonable price with discount and it looks like they have everything else you need.

 

[Temple Cloud]

Interesting alternative Jon. I hadn't thought of that but it seems like a sensible idea. But I wouldn't want to switch between the two if there's one available that shows them both all the time. And I'd really like it to look like all the other (standard) gauges if at all possible. Thanks

[Temple Cloud]

Thanks for the links. Very useful.

[Temple Cloud]

Thanks. I have no idea what my current arrangement is but I agree that the Auto one looks the biz.

While I'm here, what's the recommended best oil temperature to go for in a Crossflow (standard Caterham road spec (just been rebuilt)) before pressing the loud pedal ? Thanks

[rkeywood]

Engine running at about 80 deg C would be the norm. If there's a 'stat for an oil cooler that's usually 80 deg C.

I'm assuming a road spec engine is wet sump with standard oil pump and filter. As standard you've only got the original pressure sensor tapping in the block to go off and I'd question the reliability of using this for electronic temp and pressure. 

Have you got an oil cooler? If not then the simplest way to get a reliable sensor point might be to change to a remote filter and put a mechanical sensor in the filter head, or maybe consider fitting a cooler if you're going to be spending a fair bit of time full beans. The standard Caterham early '90s cooler arrangement was a sandwich block (without a 'stat) between the pump and filter so you'll be able to fit a housing for a mechanical sensor in the cooler oil line. Also check if you have a 'stat fitted for the cooler. If a remote inline one is used then the housing just needs to be on the engine side but if it's a 'Thermoblock' in place of the standard sandwich block then it needs swapping to a remote one  

Hope this helps  

[Temple Cloud]

Yes, wet sump with no cooler. Plenty of food for thought, so thanks

[Doc007]

If you do go down the route of the Think Automotive gauges then I would highly recommend switching OE gauge illumination bulb for a brighter LED version. This means you will stand a chance of seeing it in the dark (which I could not with the OE bulb) and its white light matches my existing gauges. Though your older car may have incandescent bulbs that give a yellower light.

[Temple Cloud]

Thanks for the advice