Duratec dry sump oil change issues !

[Ralph45]

Good evening,

Im in the process of doing an oil change on my 420 dry sumped car.

The two pipes from the sump removed as is the oil filter and a Pella oil extractor at work in the dry sump tank but I can't seem to release the finger filter cover.

I have tried to use a pick on it with no luck and was wondering if it is just a flat plate or is inserted in the hole as well?

I'm a little reluctant to use too much force  per say a screw driver as its alloy as is the sump! Any tips or tricks really appreciated.

Ralph

[aerobod - near CYYC]

It does need a bit of force sometimes. Mine has a small divot near the retaining bolt where I have levered it out against the resistance of the sealing O-ring in the bore. I just use a small screwdriver, as the sealing surface is in the bore, not against the side of the dry sump. It is more of a cosmetic issue than a functional one, with marking up the anodisation of the cover.

[Ralph45]

Thank you James

Phew! my issue was damaging the cover so good to know that it's OK to have a little dig at it.

One more question,which outlet do you get most used oil come from as I'm struggling with only about 4 litres so far?

[aerobod - near CYYC]

I normally get about 1 litre out of the finger filter hole. I don't remove the oil hoses anymore after finding resealing the AN fittings can become problematic after too many removals. With oil in the triangular tank to the correct level (5mm below the centre baffle when the oil is hot and the engine running), I get just over 6 litres drained in total, but I always unscrew the tank drain bolt, then replace it with a new copper sealing washer and torque to 15Nm. I also get a small amount draining from the oil filter.

[Ralph45]

Thank you, I was expecting to get the best part of seven litres from dropping the oil, now I have something to use as a reference.

 

[aerobod - near CYYC]

I think if you drain the oil cooler Ralph, you should get close to 7 litres in total. I leave about 0.5 litres in the engine by not disconnecting the oil cooler pipes.

[Ralph45]

Cover off and loads more oil thank you James  

[ScottR400D]

I'd agree with James. Extract as much as possible from the tank with a Pela then remove finger and oil filters.

I only ever once removed the hoses and got very little more out. 

[Geoff Brown]

As with other advice here & from ten years with my R400 just drain tank, remove main filter & remove finger filter. Clean off finger filter with brake/clutch cleaner. The oil seems to never stop dribbling from the finger filter port but with use of a digit to hurry up the residual it usually gets to a point where the filter & cap can be refitted.

IMO undoing oil delivery/return pipes can be a recipe for disaster with the uncertainty that they may not re seal properly again. Not worth it for what is probably less than 0.25L.

After some years of working with flare less fittings that have not been disturbed for countless years/flying hours it is odds on favourite that it will leak on reconnection however much one swears, threatens or continually nips it.

 

[Ralph45]

Thank you everyone for your guidance and no leaks so far although today will hopefully enable me to have a proper blat and make sure.

I think next time that I do the mid season oil change it will only involve the main oil filter finger filter and the pella in tank.

When checking the oil level I have only ever done it with a hot engine after blat and checked as quickly as possible after removing the nose cone and turning the engine off and it's just below the baffle plate.

So when the engine is cold and the oil has returned to the sump what level should it be in the tank or do you have a preferred way to check?
 

 

[ScottR400D]

IME it varies when the engine cools. 

I always do what you did, check within 5-10 min after switching off, level just below the baffle.