Tracking (increase/decrease) clock wise or anticlockwise.

[CtrMint]

Hi All, 

I'm going to be doing a string alignment today in the garage.   Having faffed with the steering column in the autumn I think it's over by one spline, causing a very slight offset in the steering wheel.  I figure its a good opportunity to get do my first alignment. 

The method seems simple, but could I possibly ask which way should I rotate the track rod to increase or decrease the toe. Probably obvious to seasoned pros, but thought it worth checking, only a minor adjustment is required so I don't want to move in the wrong direction.

Thanks

[ScottR400D]

Mark, it will become quite clear when you start. I'm sure I'm right in saying both sides are RH thread so you loosen the locknut and then wind the track rod into the rod end to pull that side wheel in at the front. 

Wind the track rod out of the rod end to push that side wheel out at the front. 

So  if your steering wheel is canted to the offside, you need to wind the off side TR out and the near side TR in.

Put a paint mark on top of the TR so you know where you're starting from and move a 1/4 turn at a time. 

[Shortshift]

"One spline out" would likely result in more than "a very slight offset".

If you're doing a full front alignment check my advice would be to start by checking that the rack is properly centred.  Count the turns of the steering wheel either side of straight ahead until the end of travel is reached and if that is not symmetrical adjust the spline joint until the number of turns either side of 'straight ahead' is matched.  With the rack properly centred, you then need to look at the alignment.

As the tie rods are mounted in front of the hub/steering axis, turning the rod so that the ball joint moves further outboard will push the front of the wheel further outwards too, thereby increasing toe-out.  Conversely, moving the ball joint further inboard will increase toe-in.  Just make sure you achieve symmetry of alignment (at whatever toe-in/toe-out setting you are aiming for) with the steering wheel pointing straight ahead.

James

[Beagler]

Track rods needs to be same length otherwise toe in or out will be incorrect on turns.

[7 wonders of the world]

Mark,

Why not just move it round on spline otherwise your correcting an installation fault by altering the length on the track rods, which will impact on turn geometry and bump steer too.

Naturally this is assuming it was correctly installed prior to your autumnal work.

 

[CtrMint]

First off thanks everyone for the input.

The job took all day, and for once completed without a fault.  The steering is now absolutely center and the car drives spot on, at least on the road.  It's complete true without any bias whatsoever.   I've taken onboard the feedback with respect to the track rod length and balance, but I'll aimed to have a nose at that during the warmer summer months, its still a little chilly out there.  

Can you confirm what I should do with respect to checking and adjusting the balance if there is an offset. 

thanks

[7 wonders of the world]

When you say centred are you meaning the wheel is central as you drive...?

worth checking each lock to see if the rack is centred too, either on turn plates or count the number of turns from straight to full left lock and compare to full right lock.

If you adjusted the toe did you check this with ballast in the car..?

[CtrMint]

Yes, when driving the steering wheel is bang on center, and they is no bias in the direction the 420R drives. 

I don't have any turn plates, so will need to get the nose cone off to easily check lock to lock.

I didn't check the 420R with ballast. My understanding that's mainly for corner weighting. 

[7 wonders of the world]

you can count the number of turns on the steering wheel itself Mark,  you should get equal turns to left lock as to right lock.

Any chassis set up should be done with ballast as the geometry does alter with the additional load from driver passenger and fuel.

[aerobod - near CYYC]

Also best to ballast for the optimum usage for the car, for track use just ballast on the drivers seat, for frequent fast road use with a passenger, ballast on both the driver and passenger seats. With the adjustable damper platforms, I have about 15mm more tension in the driver side platforms to have the car level with just the driver in it.

[CtrMint]

The rear suspension is setup accounting for the weight from a driver.  
Though I have to say the 420 is for touring and moderately quick driving. So long as it handles I'm happy, and it does.  I've never driven it and felt it struggling to handle and of course with the Penskes it's rides even better.  
If I want real fast blast on track or road, I'll use the 620.

[7 wonders of the world]

any weight placed in the car alters the settings on all 4 wheels though Mark..... and in percentage terms of the cars weight its quite a sizeable chunk

 

[CtrMint]

I've got a digital camber gauge, I'll get the wife to sit in the car and see how much change there is.  
Given how true the car felt in a straight line I can't be that far off with toe.