RogerB Posted December 30, 2021 Share Posted December 30, 2021 Is it normal to have a lot of play on the gearbox input shaft. I'm measuring about 1mm of vertical movement.I'm investigating a loss of gear oil which is coming out of the bell housing. One gearbox specialist has suggested it would be coming from the selector shaft which protrudes into the bell housing as there is no gasket fitted between the gearbox and bell housing, although it has a black sealant all over the joint face. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Kay Posted December 30, 2021 Share Posted December 30, 2021 Private Message sent.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beagler Posted December 30, 2021 Share Posted December 30, 2021 The pilot bearing in the end of crankshaft holds it steady Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted December 30, 2021 Share Posted December 30, 2021 The selector shaft is favourite. But replace the input seal and gasket whilst you have the box out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerB Posted December 30, 2021 Author Share Posted December 30, 2021 Thanks guys and I guess it's worth doing all three seals whilst it's out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beagler Posted December 31, 2021 Share Posted December 31, 2021 How many miles has it done and is it a keeper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerB Posted December 31, 2021 Author Share Posted December 31, 2021 Only 6k on the car however its a Q plate as not a new box or engine. On further investigation after removing the sleeve to uncover the input bearing most of the play is a clearance between the outer race and the housing in the casing. I'm considering refitting this with some loctite bearing fit to take up this clearance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beagler Posted December 31, 2021 Share Posted December 31, 2021 Thats a little disconcerting it means the bearing has spun in the housing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerB Posted January 2, 2022 Author Share Posted January 2, 2022 Yes that could well be the case however it could have been an earlier bearing that has spun in the casing as this one looks in good shape.Is there a method of removing the bearing without dismantling the gearbox and using a bearing puller. I have tried by removing the inner circlip and then prising the bearing along the shaft with screwdrivers under the outer circlip. Clearly the bearing is an interference fit on the shaft as it wont move this way and also could be problematic refitting.What I'm hoping to do is refit the bearing in the gearbox with loctite bearing fit to take up the clearance using feeler guages to centralise in the housing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beagler Posted January 2, 2022 Share Posted January 2, 2022 Looking at this it may come forward out of the housing as the bearing is larger than gear dia. The bearing needs a press to remove and replace on the Spigott/ First Motion Shaft. There are special tools and a press to do it without shaft or bearing damage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted January 2, 2022 Share Posted January 2, 2022 "Looking at this it may come forward out of the housing as the bearing is larger than gear dia. The bearing needs a press to remove and replace on the Spigott/ First Motion Shaft. There are special tools and a press to do it without shaft or bearing damage."I have just been through the process of replacing the seal on the input shaft housing to cure an oil leak. On discussion with BGH I was warned, after removal of the housing to avoid any forward movement on the input shaft (ie out of the gearbox) as the 4th gear baulk ring (#6 in the parts diagram above) can get dislocated, requiring a gearbox dis-assembly to retrieve it. A Type 9 gearbox 'must' have a gasket between the gearbox and bellhousing, along with sealant around the selector rod hole as changing gear shifts oil along the shaft into the g/box bellhousing joint. (Although I understand no gasket is required with a 6 speed).Malcolm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beagler Posted January 2, 2022 Share Posted January 2, 2022 If the baulk ring gets dislodged it should go back on the taper of the spigot shaft and stick. Care would need to be taken pushing the shaft back with it attached. Holding the gearbox vertical with spigot shaft point upward and tapping it to release the taper may help to leave it in situ in the hub. It should also be possible to drop the baulk ring into the hub and gently push the taper of the spigot shaft in the ring. This with the gearbox vertical. Obvious care is needed not to damage the baulk ring and location of parts must be complete before assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beagler Posted January 2, 2022 Share Posted January 2, 2022 Looking at the drawing again the layshaft cluster 21 may need to drop for the spigot shaft to be withdrawn forward. The synchromesh teeth on the spigot shaft may catch on the constant mesh gear at the front of the gear cluster 21. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted January 2, 2022 Share Posted January 2, 2022 Syncro dogs foul on the Laygear, to remove the layshaft to drop the laygear you need to remove the tail housing and this usually results in tearing the gaskets you will also need a dummy layshaft to hold the bearings in place too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beagler Posted January 2, 2022 Share Posted January 2, 2022 You will need to secure the layshaft/gear cluster thrust washers to the casing with grease to keep in situ when replacing gear cluster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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