Removing chassis rivets (bow tube) -- advice / guidance please

[CtrMint]

Afternoon All, 

Hope you're all well.

This weekend I'm starting the process of fitting my bow protectors which means drilling out the internal panel rivets.  Can anyone offer some words of advice or wisdom on how to best approach the removal of the rivets?  I appreciate you drill them out, but are there any techniques that would increase the cleanliness of the process etc.  I have bought some new drill bits, and also a better 90degree drill.

I'm assuming the piece of metal which sits inside the bow tube can't be removed and will drop into the chassis?    There's no drain hole where this can be extracted?

As always, thanks for the advice.

Mark

[ECR]

The usual technique is to inject waxoyl or similar which will set and stop them rattling around

[SM25T]

Yup, waxoyl will help stop the rattles.

[CtrMint]

Thanks, I wouldn't have known that.  I take it you inject it through one of the rivet holes after it's removed.  

Any recommendations on the removal / drilling process.

cheers

[K7 VCT]

Spray can of waxoil is easy to spray via holes.

[MADMALC]

'Any recommendations on the removal / drilling process.' For aluminum rivets I normally use quite a large drill bit and go very slowly. You can easily see when the head is about to come off. Others recommend a drill bit the same size or a little smaller than the rivet.

Chose your weapon and do your first one somewhere out of site so you get a feel for it.

[TomB]

Using a slow drill speed and sharp but allowing the softer inner material of the rivet to be reamed out. The wider head should fall off or go onto the drill bit. You’re over worrying, nothing to it really, maybe practise on those lower down that are hidden by seat.  Squirt some Waxoil in to stop any debris in the tube rattling around. 

[ECR]

Where the rivet starts spinning and drilling becomes ineffective, or when the panel is being replaced, I found that an old (but sharp) wood chisel under the head was very effective and faster than drilling

[OldAndrewE]

The only thing I would add is that sometimes, once the head is drilled off you can come up against the remains of the steel "nail" and this can cause the drill to wander.  You do not want to enlarge the hole in the chassis so stop drilling and use a suitably sized parallel punch to (lightly) tap the remains in to the tube 

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/et101-8-piece-short-drivepin-punch-set/

[CtrMint]

Thanks all.   I took it very slowly.  I drilled a pilot hole with a 2mm bit, then increased to 3mm, then 4mm which took the head off. The center was left in the tube, I used the 2mm to drill all the way through and then a punch to gently fold the outer in, the remaining outer shell was then push through with a punch.  I was amazed how well it went for my first go.  Not one went badly or caused any deformation or enlargement of the hole.  It did take me some time, but I enjoyed the process so I guess it doesn't matter.

I also sprayed a good dose of Waxoly in after.