Wheel Studs

[p.mole1]

Are all rear wheel studs the same length, mine are 36mm, I have just replaced my 14 inch wheels with Revolution 13 inch 4 spoke wheels, I must say they are very well made. The rear wheel hub is slightly thicker, I only have 12/13mm of stud engaging the nut. Is this enough. I am using an ET20 7x13 the right hand side clears the anti roll bar drop link by at least 25mm but the left hand side is almost touching the tyre.

I have a top mounted anti roll bar can I get it out without moving anything else, it looks like it needs some judicious bending in the vice

[Jonathan Kay]

Email sent.

[Wrightpayne]

There were some threads (sorry no pun intended) a few years ago about the standard wheel studs being too short, with the nut only engaging by 5 threads. This is often invisible with closed wheel nuts. There was debate over whether acceptable or not.

Caterham sold longer studs so I changed mine as 5 threads didn't seem sufficient engagement IMHO. Also fitted mk1 Elise black open wheel nuts at the same time and the stud is flush with the top of the wheel nut when torqued up, so fully engaged.

 

It is things like this that it important to re-affirm so new members are fully aware and can make an educated decision.

Regards

Ian

 

Edited to say Caterham parts only seem to list a 40mm ford stud - pretty sure my originals were 34mm. Car is '98 dedion.

[anthonym]

Email sent.

[SM25T]

My 2002 originals were 34mm. Replacements 40mm to suit thicker alloy wheels.

[Drumster]

Yes, it is possible to remove the over-the-diff ARB without removing anything else, it's a bit fiddly but it is possible.

I think the over-the-diff mounting was fine on older models before the advent of wider wheels. when I fitted 8 1/2" rears for sprinting ISTR the droplinks and/or ARB were far too close to the tyre.

Eventually I simply removed the ARB and ran the car like that for a few seasons before deciding to re-install the ARB to play with the handling settings, but I went to Arch and got them to retro-fit the bosses into the bottom chassis rail (Saturday morning job there) so I could fit an under-the-diff ARB (photos here). This method uses the same mounts but it is a shorter(?) ARB

[Drumster]

Re wheel stud length I believe the following is recommended:

For M12 x 1.5 pitch nut

6 complete turns of the nut  (9mm of engagement - 3/4 x D) - MINIMUM acceptable

8 complete turns of the nut  (12mm of engagement - 1 x D)

12 complete turns of the nut  (18mm of engagement - 1.5 x D) MSA standard

[p.mole1]

Thanks, I have 7.5 turns so I'll change them, have found some 47mm Escort studs 

Grayston M12 x 1.50 Ford Wheel Stud 47mm Long. I assume these will fit?  that will fill the nut completely.

I managed to get the anti roll bar out just, it is the over slung type, I had to remove one damper assembly and it was tight! The anti roll bar was just badly made and one of the ears required a bit of bending. It's all back together with plenty clearance

[Wrightpayne]

Just need to ensure on a closed nut it doesnt bottom out. 
 

I actually prefer the open wheel nuts as anything amiss is quite easy to spot. Also being black matches the black / yellow scheme on my car. The seat taper for the MK1 Elise matches the normal Caterham nut.

https://www.eliseparts.com/shop/wheels-and-tyres/nuts-bolts/60-degree-taper-open-end-wheel-nuts/

[nickh7]

I had a stud failure and that linked to a set of recently refurbished set of wheels (paint in the holes) resulted in a wheel coming off .

 

Now fitted longer studs and open wheel nuts. The 47mm will be quite close to bottoming out I'd have thought. I'd go open

[elie boone]

Nick, your longer studs would not have saved you loosing a wheel, it would have take a bit longer and you may have feeld a wobble hat's all. When the paint gives away where the nut is seated your wheel nuts are effectively loose.