Grant Dryburgh Posted December 14, 2019 Share Posted December 14, 2019 Hi all, Got a bit of an issue with my throttle sticking.Its a 1.6 K with the Alloy throttle body. Problem is on initial opening of the throttle it is sticking in the closed position and as you apply more pressure it will pop open. This means I can't gradually open the throttle and end up with too many revs when trying to pull away. Pedal moves freely, I stripped the throttle body cleaned/lubricated it all operates smoothly so problem seems to be cable related. Both the original cable and a brand new cable i just fitted are resulting in the throttle issue I described. Has anyone experienced this before ? :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted December 14, 2019 Share Posted December 14, 2019 Is the cable path smooth .. no kinks ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilla Posted December 14, 2019 Share Posted December 14, 2019 Is the throttle stop screw adjusted correctly, as in ... does the tab hit the screw when the throttle is fully closed or is it not reaching the screw and allowing the butterfly to wedge against the side of the body? Be very careful adjusting this screw, small changes can make big differences to driveability and you will need to recalibrate the TPS whenever you adjust it, so don't move it unless it does look wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant Dryburgh Posted December 14, 2019 Author Share Posted December 14, 2019 Original cable appeared to have a small kink, so replaced with a new longer cable to have a smoother turn on it and reduce chances of kinking but the new cable is behaving exactly the same for some reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant Dryburgh Posted December 14, 2019 Author Share Posted December 14, 2019 Yeah I checked the stop screw it is set so the butterfly isn't wedging closed. When operating the throttle body by hand it is perfectly smooth on opening and can be opened very precisely. Just dont understand why the cable is causing the sticking issue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted December 14, 2019 Share Posted December 14, 2019 Is the inner cable straight from the ends of the outer to where it attaches each end ? No sideways pull. Is the barrel nipple at the TB end the right size ... not too long and fouling on something as spindle turns ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elie boone Posted December 14, 2019 Share Posted December 14, 2019 Does the pedal itself moves freely without the cable, the can go sticky after some time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant Dryburgh Posted December 14, 2019 Author Share Posted December 14, 2019 Hi guys, thanks for the advice. Been having another play around with it, appears it may have been the stop screw after all had it set where opening the throttle body by hand it was working fine but after turning the screw in more the cable is now operating smoothly. Unfortunately I also have a faulty immobiliser so cant start the car at the moment to see if idle speed has been affected by turning in the stop screw so will nee to wait and see if the idle speed is ok but throttle is now moving freely Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilla Posted December 14, 2019 Share Posted December 14, 2019 You should recalibrate the ECU to recognise the new idle stop position reading on the TPS. For EU3 (I think it's the same for EU2), switch the ignition on but don't try to start. Smoothly open the throttle to full then close back to idle five times in a row. Then switch off. Job done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilla Posted December 14, 2019 Share Posted December 14, 2019 PS: if you've opened it a bit too much, the symptom you will notice most is a sharp transition on and off idle. It will feel a bit on-off at low throttle and be a bit shunty in traffic. If you get it just right there will be barely nothing noticeable as you pick up gently from closed throttle just a smooth pick up of power. When you get that driveability issue it's not immediately obvious what's wrong. Basically you want to make it so that at the point the ECU switches from idle management strategy to normal drive strategy the engine is producing very little power. If the stop screw is too far open, as soon as the ECU stops holding the engine down to idle speed it makes power and you get a step. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant Dryburgh Posted December 14, 2019 Author Share Posted December 14, 2019 Brilliant thanks for that I knew there was a process to reset it buts its been years since my last K series car and couldnt remember how to do it Edit : Ok once I get the immobiliser sorted I'll give it a good look over to make sure its nice and smooth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilla Posted December 14, 2019 Share Posted December 14, 2019 What's the issue with the immobiliser? I've done quite a bit of work on them, I've got kit to test and match immobilisers, ECUs and key fobs, spare immobilisers, loads of spare key fob circuit boards. I've done quite a few pairings for people lately. Let me know if I can be of help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant Dryburgh Posted December 14, 2019 Author Share Posted December 14, 2019 I'm in the process of replacing the whole dashboard at the moment with 620R style toggle switches and an Aim MXS Strada display so while doing all the wiring the battery has been disconnected for weeks. When I reconnected it the immobiliser isnt responding to the fobs at all and the led is flashing at random intervals and patterns, also the brightness of the led is varying. I've been through the wiring diagrams and all the connections to the immobiliser plug are correct it just dosent seem to work. The engine will fire but after 1-2 seconds the immobiliser just kills it and then it will only crank not fire until the ignition is cycled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilla Posted December 14, 2019 Share Posted December 14, 2019 That firing and dying is the normal behaviour when no immobiliser code is received. If you want to send the immobiliser to me I can test it for you on my test rig? Would distinguish between an immobiliser fault and a wiring fault quickly. And if it's broken I could match a replacement one up for you, they're cheap. PS: Just to be clear, I'm offering to do it for nothing It's not my job or anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant Dryburgh Posted December 14, 2019 Author Share Posted December 14, 2019 That would be great, I'd really appreciate it if you could take a look at it.If you can message me some details I'll try and pop it in the post, can send the fobs with it if required Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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