Grant Dryburgh

PM's replied, sorry for slow replies on holiday at the moment

PM replied Steve

Still got a couple of parts lying in the garage to clear out Caterham Electronic Speedo - SOLD Oil Pressure gauge and sender - SOLD Lowered headlight brackets (Metric) - SOLD Standard gear shifter - SOLD Stainless Exhaust Heatshield. Approx 19" Long, was fitted to a 6 inch dia silencer. Will require new jubilee clips to attach to exhaust. £55 Posted Lower Aluminium Coolant Pipe. 300mm long. £7.50 Posted Light Lenses - Tail Lights Pair, Fog, Reverse and 2 Pair Clear Indicators - open to offers on these. Any questions please ask

Also meant to add there is plenty clearance between the motor and the block so it doesn't seem to be a result of fouling on the engine block

Yeah spent yesterday having another play around with it and your exactly right Revilla, the elongated holes are only letting the starter rotate in the spacer. When offering it back upto the car I have noticed there is a very small amount of movement in the spacer but I'm talking maybe 1mm so I can't see how that would have such an effect. The noise is really quite awful when it occurs, I'm almost embarrassed to start the car with the screech that follows. I,ve refitted the starter but this time clocked the motor as far anti clockwise towards the flywheel as I can and at the same time kept the spacer pulled back as far from the flywheel as I can. My thought is if the motor is pulling the spacer over, with it now hard against the fasteners it shouldn't rotate and the spacer should remain where it is. As you said though Andrew with the clamping force of those fasteners it shouldn't be going anywhere anyway. I've tightened them as much as I dare, any tighter and I think I might risk rounding something off. Seems to be sounding ok when cranking in this position so I'll see if it lasts this time. It's had me scratching my head for hours this issue Ps as far as I'm aware it's the standard flywheel the car would of came with, I'm assuming the caterham motors came with a slightly lighter flywheel than the regular mg rover units ?? Certainly isn't a fancy aftermarket one anyway

Yeah it's a strange one, been having another play about with it today, there really is minimal movement when bolting it up but it seems to make all the difference. there's no visible damage or uneven wear on the starter gear or flywheel just seem to get this awful noise if it's not in exactly the right position

Hi all, wondering if anyone has come across this issue on their 7. When I bought my 7 I noticed the starter sounded awful when cranking the engine, high pitched whine/screech. My guess was a bad motor or simply incorrect clearance between the starter gear and the flywheel. So I removed the starter and noticed the starter has oval holes for the bolts and the spacer plate does not. I refitted and clocked the starter motor as far as I could clockwise to gain more clearance between the starter gear and flywheel. Worked a treat and the noise was gone sounded perfectly smooth as it should. However, the awful noise has slowly come back and I've found the starter has worked itself back in towards the flywheel. I'm guessing the torque of the starter is pulling it back over when cranking. Anyone had this issue and found a solution ? My only thought at the moment is set the starter and spacer in position drill through both then press a pin in so it cannot rotate in towards the flywheel again ??

Hi Paul, replied to your pm Grant

Thanks Oily, I know actual compression would depend on the cams etc but would yous say for something around R500 kind of power with cams like 1444s and required headwork etc pistons advertised as 12:1 compression would be ok ? Or better to play it a bit safer with 11.5:1?

Just been having a look at various High power K-Series builds pondering options for later down the road maybe building a high power 1800K for my 7 Got me wondering about CR ratios, most I've seen seem to be around 11.5:1 like the R500K. I've seen piston options for 12 and even 12.5:1 so has anyone come across a K running 12:1 or more and any thoughts regarding fuel octane and detonation with that much comp in a K ? Pros/cons? No plans for anything just a topic for discussion/thoughts?

PM sent AJ

Hi Ed, haven't used the ring lights. Originally bought them to replace my old lights but ended up buying a complete set of smaller lamps and using them instead. These have only been out the box to check condition.

PM Replied

No worries

@ Aeroscreens Hi, don't seem to have received it maybe try sending it again?

Hi Andrew, Heat shield is 19" in length and was fitted to a 6" silencer.

PM sent Ian

Hi Paul, yeah Tachometer is from a 2000 EU2 1.6K

Hi folks, got a few bits and pieces kicking about the garage looking to sell on. Pair of brand new Metric Headlight Brackets. Lowered wishbone mount type. Never installed as new - £55 Delivered Carsten Filmer Carbon Handbrake Handle - SOLD Cibie 5 3/4 Headlights - SOLD pair of brand new Ring clear lens 5 3/4 headlights - £30 delivered Standard Mirrors - SOLD Stainless Steel Exhaust Heat Shield - £55 Delivered (19" Length - Fits 6" Silencer) Last few bits of my original dash including the panel itself. I'm open to any offers on these bits. Speedo, Oil Press and panel still available Switches & Tachometer are sold. Any questions please ask

Cheers guys, seal looks ok but I'll get a fresh one ordered anyway

Perfect thanks Andrew I assumed it was just spun on the same as a filter didn't realise there was a bolt on adaptor, got it all off no bother just need to clean the face of the block for the new housing gasket and bolt the new one on Cheers

Hi folks, I found a crack in my oil filter housing the other week, got a new housing ready to go on but before I set about pulling the old one off just wanted to check regarding the sandwich plate. Is this likely to be mega tight or should it be easy enough to free from the housing? Any tips on how to actually go about cracking it loose from the filter housing ? Assuming on re-assembly it will be the same as any oil filter just nip it up hand tight? Thanks in advance for any help

Hi David, Perfect just the sort of thing I was looking for! I was scratching my head for hours and never thought of using grommets, I'll give that a go. Funnily enough I found the tail/ind blocks not too bad to fit but I was stumped by the fog/reverse Thanks for the help

Hi folks. Wondering if anyone can help me out, I'm fitting my Classic Carbon rear light boxes for the fog/reverse and using JAL led lights. Anyone advise how to mount the leds in the boxes and install the lenses ? No instructions on fitting or any fixings were supplied by Classic Carbon and it's proving a nightmare to try and fit these. If anyone has some photos of how they have mounted them it would be much appreciated Cheers

Hi david, I've been changing my dash to a new setup so I have a speedo/tacho & oil pressure gauge left over They were removed from my 2000 1.6K SS 6 Speed Hopefully the speedo is what your after