First outing, running on three cylinders. Solved.

[rj]

Bin it Anthony,

Like Andrew says: Wasted spark is fit and forget.

 

[CageyH]

It is one of these. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-NJD10010

 

Rotor arm - https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-NJE100071

[Stridey]

I liked the ohm test notes/pic. The spread seemed a fair bit on the old ones, but nothing really really out of sync, perhaps the .2 one?

Anyway, the new ones seem close in range.

Looks like your getting there with your other discoveries in the cap.

Just the process of removing leads and replacing is giving you a feel of how they should clasp as they locate on the plugs, all good knowledge for the future.

[anthonym]

Glad the written pic worked. The thought of typing that was a bit grievous. I despair of myself, years ago my dizzy would have never got to look like that. I had thought it was some how different under there ; clearly not aside from the absence of points. Please don’t tell me it has points... and a condenser! :-)

Anyway, no new dizzy/rotor arm until Monday pm. However, one place has given me a new centre pole connect, to my amazement. How to dismantle it to replace? 

Now then, wasted spark? I spotted the word « fabricate » in the comments. That's not trivial here, and hey, my dizzy lasted 20 years.. or at least ten, and did I spot « remap ecu » in there as well? So all that’s maybe for the next rebuild ( hopefully by oily).

Picked up a coil lead that may do the trick. 

anthony

 

 

[rj]

You can move to wasted spark in many different ways.

You can use the GM coil pack and need to manufacture a bracket to it (Simply an angle of something with four-six holes in it).

You could also source an EU2 VVC coil pack or move to EU3 coil packs which would require an EU3 cam cover (I have one surplus with drilling for apollo).

Or you could use Nippon Denso motorcycle packs that will require spark plugs with just the M4 thread (not the adaptor).

Options options options.

You just need to tell the ECU you're runing wasted spark and do the wiring. As I gather it some Emeralds will need an extra external driver as it may only have one high power output for the coil. I don't know much about the Emerald though.

 

For the Crazylight I will most likely be using the Nippon Denso version, but as it'll have a completely different ECU it won't even be wasted spark. It'll be fully sequential like the injection. (Yours is banked).

But all in all it's another JFDI...

[elie boone]

Oily explained why you need spark plugs with a resistance in a wasted spark system, to do with the fact that electricity takes the way of less resistance, but if it's firing  on 3 cylinders R U sure there are 4 pistons in the engine 

[anthonym]

What’s a coil pack?

elie I haven’t thought of an answer to that yet

[rj]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR11.TRC1.A0.H0.Xcoil+pack.TRS0&_nkw=coil+pack&_sacat=0

[anthonym]

Okay... well not really. It sounds real complicated, but you all say its easy.. pics of your install maybe?

[rj]

On the Syllylight it's just EU3 coils. Not nearly as light as the ND ones.

I don't think I have any pictures. Might remember to take them tomorrow when I'm going to search for leaks :-/

[CageyH]

I went with the GM coil pack as it was the cheapest and easiest to do from an EU2.

[anthonym]

pics welcome, I need something to visualise, no rush. Maybe I could ask oily to make the change so as to match his « refresh » next Winter. Does that require a remap? The two steves again spring to mind. 

 

[CageyH]

No remap required, but you will need to access the ECU to set up the wasted spark.

[anthonym]

Happily I very recently achieved K6 ECU access. I was very pleasantly surprised how easy it was (once I found my kit). A bit wary of altering things of course.

[anthonym]

I am warming to this idea. Now I can see :

so I guess the wires dangling off the end go to the .. existing coil pack? Or they skip that and go somewhere else ; in fact being "coil packs" I guess they themselves generate the HT spark, so long HT leads no longer, and those wires must head off somewhere to be told to dish out a spark, in other words these are LT wires.. direct to the ECU? Really? SO simple and a load of old tech skipped. Not quite sure I believe I understand. 

anthony

wasn't there a conversation with Emerald about whether to wire for this? Istr some emails, but not the conclusion.

 

[rj]

Each coil gets +12v and a switched earth from the ECU

[anthonym]

12v from where? Two switched earth wires from the ecu?

I like the idea of fewer parts to go wrong, especially moving parts, but immediately before going on the road for Summer and m.o.t. doesn't seem like a good idea, 'specially with refresh on the horizon.

Has this all become possible because of ECUs (so spinning dizzy not required) and ever smaller coils being possible? 

[rj]

I can't tell why this was not standard in the very begining, but I suppose one step at a time has been taken and that the uPs have become more powerful over time making it possible at the same time where the output stages fell in price.

The +ve comes from the MFRU - it does now and goes to the coil on the side of your engine. You just have to add another wire to the 2nd coil.

[anthonym]

So iiuc this is all about excluding the dizzy.. which will still be there wizzing round to no avail. Do we benefit from a more accurately timed spark or some other performance or reliability benefit? Or both..

[anthonym]

Does this mean that when the alternator fails the engine will last only half as long running only off the battery?

[rj]

The distributer can be removed.

The extra power spent will be neglectable. 4A-ish for 2.5mS per revolution. At 8.6k the duty cycle will be something like 1:3 which means that the extra current drain wil be something like 1.3A.

What really drains the battery is the fuel pump, which takes almost ten times as much.

 

[rj]

This could give you an idea about the distributor:

http://www.s262612653.websitehome.co.uk/kengine/index.htm#vvccap

As far as I know you can remove the pin that drives the rotor. Could be as simple as pulling it out.

[anthonym]

http://www.s262612653.websitehome.co.uk/kengine/index.htm#vvccap

[anthonym]

Ok, replaced dizzy cap, plug leads and coil thing lead, new plugs, so I think there is not a wire in the engine bay that has not been replaced this Winter. The 3 cylinder symptom seems to have gone.

Also cured a parasitic drain caused by Brise Sense wire 0.270 AMPS direct to battery positive while B+ goes to the cut side of the cut out switch. Either has to be to same side of the cutout or disconnected; currently disconnected.

anthony

[revilla]

I think you mean 0.27A or 270mA.