Reskin - what else to do?

[AdamQ]

I'm nearing the final stages of stripping a 1999 De Dion prior to having the chassis sand-blasted, powder-coated and re-skinned by Arch.

Regarding the 'internal' panels, I can't see why most if not all of them can't be re-used - am I missing anything that makes this a false economy?

Regarding other things to do whilst I'm at it, my own thoughts and a search of the archives have resulted in the following list.

• Remove stubs left over from spare-wheel carrier
• Move handbrake to under the dash (I prefer the 'cleaner' transmission tunnel)
• Shorten passenger footwell (car is a DIY Duratec conversion so this gets rid of the botch required for that in order to accommodate the bellhousing, plus I just like the extra space in the engine bay)
• Engine bay diagonals are already removable so no changes required there
• Are all driver's footwells created equal?  This Duratec conversion required some subtle modification on the driver's side, another identical one on an ex-racer didn't, hence the question ...
• Filler and dipstick hole in gearbox cover
• Flexible rear brake lines
• A-frame is in a fair old state so I'm considering a new one with a spherical central joint (rather than renovating the current one)
• Lowered floors - they seem to be all the rage, but I've not felt the need so wasn't going to go that route ...

Any suggestions from others who've been down this path and have got to the end and thought 'I wish I'd done that while I had the chance' would be very welcome ...

Thanks,

Adam

[TomB]

Ask Arch to powercoat the inside panels of the engine bay? 

[Wrightpayne]

Later chassis's with no spare wheel tend to have two ferrules in the rear lower tube to enable retro fitting of spare wheel hoop. Could fit to give future flexibility.

threaded bosses for SLR cage

new bushes in chassis for diff fixings

fog/reverse under slung so 'clean' back panel - there are some nice aftermarket slim LED lights

Watts linkage rear end

Black Pack interior panels

If I went through this I'd have an ally boot cover and no poppers in rear skin.

Ian

[AdamQ]

Thank you both.  

I like the thought of a powder-coated engine bay - sounds v smart...

New bushes sounds like a good idea - one hears lots of tales of woe about fitting them oneself.

I like the suggestion about the fog and reversing lights - will investigate ...

I've avoided poppers in the rear skin by using neodymium magnets - one glued into in the female popper in the boot cover, another Araldited inside the boot - it works well ...

Thanks again,

Adam

[Wrightpayne]

Adam

when the boxy landrover fog and reverse were first fitted they had a metal backplate and hung off two ferules brazed to the lower rear chassis tube - you may have them on your car. I believe in this location they didn't quite meet the location regs so were moved onto the back panel.

Ian

[ECR]

If you trailer the car, I'd have two more towing eyes fitted to mirror those already there. It makes strapping the car down easier. Dependent on engine power, I'd ask Bruce if it was worth bracing the diff carrier.

A propshaft safety retaining hoop is a nice addition ....

 

[Molecular--Bob]

Can you move the hand brake? Thought it was chassis dependent, so not sure you will have the required chassis mounts for an under dash hand brake if your car already has the centre mounted one.

[AdamQ]

Re. the handbrake, I'm sure I read in one of the many posts I trawled through on here that somebody had done it - I know plenty of people have gone the other way.  I sort of assumed (naively maybe) that once the chassis was stripped and in Arch's hands pretty much anything was possible - within reason ...!

Thank Ian and ECR for the worthwhile suggestions - appreciated.

[Wrightpayne]

BTTT for anyone (Ed) contemplating a chassis refurb!

[TomB]

I had mine done, but with a budget I did a half way house of having the car stripped at Arch, then any corrosion cleaned, primed and painted rather than a fulls strip blast and recoat.  I didn't have the internal, rear bulk head or floors replaced.  With hindsight I wish Id had the floors replaced as I've had to replace some rivets with steel and put some minor repair pieces on where the floor has pulled through the rivet heads - I think I simply forget to ask!  

I had a new de-dion supplied by Arch - they took it away to check for straightness, said it was slightly bent - but my suspicion is they consider them lifed items and wanted to push me down the route of replacing it. I look at replacing it anyway TBH is its old/ original - the design has evolved to increase strength after failures of certain welds and bosses.   

It wasn't in my original budget, but Id recommend paint protection film if your painting it. Its a big chunk of the cost of a repaint, but painting a car also requires a signficant time investment of stripping, transporting and rebuilding.  It should keep the paintwork looking good for many years.     

[Wrightpayne]

Checking chassis / changing the dedion diff bushes is a good call!

[Guy Lowe]

As with TomB, I had the inside of the side skins powder coated, got to be done, really pleased.

[TomB]

The black powder coat inside looks the dogs danglies, plus the risk of bimetallic corrosion near your knees on the outside panel is much reduced. 

[grumpy the 7th]

Just make sure your armourfend is fitted properly my £5k+ refurb at a well known Seven establismment contracts out this work. Yes they offered to rectify it (plus about 10 other defects including a weeping brake hose union  all of which I rectified myself) but I wasn't prepaired to do another two 400 miles round trips to them.