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remove caterham 6 -speed gearbox (engine already out)


mcerbm

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I have removed my k-series engine from my Superlight R for a refresh. I have left my gearbox & bellhousing behind by suspending it from a block of wood between the foot wells.

I'm now thinking I might get the car resprayed while the engine is out, this would include the ledge in front of the bulkhead as it is a bit scruffy and also the same colour as the car (green) rather than later caterhams which are matt black.

What would be the best way to remove the gearbox when the engine is already out? I have access to a engine crane and also have jacks to lower the gearbox from the block of wood onto a car dolly.

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You will need to remove at least one seat so you can lift the tunnel cover and then remove the gearstick (3 bolts).  You will also have to allow the handbrake to be released to lift the tunnel cover which is done by reaching above the diff on the passenger side and then winding the two white plastic nuts back to allow the handbrake cable to go slack. Gearbox can come out on a trolley jack under the front and undo the large bolt that passes through the gearbox mounting.  Lift the tail so that it clears the mounting and push the box forward on the jack.  Keep it level unless you drain the oil first as Smithy suggests.

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there is mucho debate on gearbox oil. It must be GL4. Redline MTL and Comma SX75W90 are the two most common, the latter is available in Halfords and spec'd by caterham. I've used both and TBH didnt notice any difference. It needs just over a litre so you'll need 2 bottles.

6 speed has a fill plug half way up the side - add oil till it runs out and unlike the 5 speed, a drain plug at the bottom. Refil it once its back in the car.

Ian

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I'm not sure if the 6 speed has a drain plug or not but on a 5 speed (which generally don't) I have lifted the box out complete with the prop in order to avoid getting gear oil everywhere. It sounds odd but only takes a few minutes to remove the four prop bolts and then but a cable tie between the prop yolk and gearbox tail housing which enables you to carefully remove both together with no risk of oil loss. it can be quicker to this than having to remove stinking EP oil from the car and garage floor!You can then refit the prop, drain the box fully before refititng in the conventional way.

Rob 

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I made a plug to fit into the rear of the gearbox once it's slid forward off the propshaft. I cut a short length of 1.375" o/d thin wall tube and brazed an end cap on it (A polybag taped over the end should work if you don't have brazing facilities). This is very effective and stops all oil leakage from the tail of the gearbox as you manoeuvre it out of the chassis.



Cheap chrome plated exhaust trims from Halfords (or the like) are a good source of 1.375" tube. Make sure that the cut end of the pipe is smooth before using .....


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