p.mole1 Posted December 3, 2016 Share Posted December 3, 2016 I have ordered one of these for my K series Supersport . Any tips on enlarging the hole in the bodywork? I must admit to feeling a bit nervous about hacking a great big hole for the manifold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookie Monster Posted December 3, 2016 Share Posted December 3, 2016 Get them to do it?I did and a top job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p.mole1 Posted December 4, 2016 Author Share Posted December 4, 2016 That would be the ideal solution but I am 300 miles away! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wjblundell Posted December 4, 2016 Share Posted December 4, 2016 PM sent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted December 4, 2016 Share Posted December 4, 2016 lots of tips in the archive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Nick Bassett Posted December 5, 2016 Area Representative Share Posted December 5, 2016 FWIW, I fitted a 4-2-1 SLR exhaust to mine last year - these are some hints & tips I sent a fellow blat chatter: 1. Measure twice/three times before cutting anything! 2. Treble tape the area around the exit hole you wish to cut - save your paint work 3. You will probably have to undo both engine mounts and carefully jack the engine up to remove the short exhaust manifold. This might sound worse than it actually is - just use a piece of wood under your jack before placing on the alloy sump then jack up very slowly.3a - I had a template that I used, so points 4 to 7 only apply if you want to use my template! 4. Use template attached (if you want to) although I used it really only at the end to finish the shape of the exit hole. Printed out on A4 paper, it should be the correct size. Any problems and I'll post you a copy! 5. Prior to cutting anything, draw 4 circles on the template and number them according to which primary exits where - this will really help with the cutting. 6. Once established point 5 above, then attach a primary to see which one actually fits out of existing hole - this will help you judge where to start cutting. 7. Don't worry about having a perfect shaped exit hole at first - just make it big enough to fit all 4 pipes through, then use template to achieved desired shape - you can actually do this with emery cloth as the alloy skin is really quite soft. 8. A Dremel type tool is perfect for this job - some cheap files will also come in handy. 9. Wear eye protection! 10. To achieve a good gas tight seal between gasket & cylinder head, use Loctite Loctite 5990 Premium Silicone Copper Gasket Maker/Sealant on the exhaust gasket 11. Don't do everything up tight at first, otherwise it tends not to go together! 12. Primary four at the very end is held on by a cap head bolt - can be tricky to locate when tightening, but not too badJust to add to the above - don't rush anything and if something isn't going quite right or you're feeling tired, just walk away and go back to it when you're feeling fresher or in a different state of mind! I was a bit worried about cutting into the skin of my beloved 7, but actually it's not too bad at all and quite satisfying to be able to say ' I fitted that'!PM me if you have any questions - I'm by no means an expert mind!CheersNick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alastair B Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 I did this job a few months ago and wrote up a posting on the job..https://www.lotus7.club/comment/2194486#comment-2194486You do not need any sealant on the primaries to collector, the fit is a light interference and does not need anything else. I struggled with getting the collector onto the pipes until an experienced friend helped me. He simply held the collector and whilst pushing firmly, 'wiggled' in multiple directions the can onto the primaries (which were not securely fastened). The collector basically 'crept' onto the primaries, it went on in about 3 minutes.....no bashing required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Archer Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 Alastair, just to be clear, Nick Bassett said silicone copper gasket maker between gasket and cylinder head, on mine this was a must, and believe it or not I still have a ruddy blow from the head so need to take it off and do it again. It sounds like the engine is tapping when you drive along but it is just the manifold to head. Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Nick Bassett Posted December 5, 2016 Area Representative Share Posted December 5, 2016 Hi Alan,That is exactly the same noise I had! It's bloody annoying and not good for performance either!When at DVA, we stuck the exhaust manifold gasket to the head using RTV and let it set for a bit, then fitted the primaries and it's been 100% tight since. As I've written before somewhere on this forum, I was surprised at just how tight Dave did up the nuts on to the exhaust studs and when I mentioned it to him, he said they are pretty tough studs - I obviously bowed to his experience. When I fitted the exhaust, I think I was being a bit too careful, being inexperienced. I should add Dave didn't use a torque wrench on these, but he clearly knows his onions. The bit I feared the most was the cap head bolt at the end.CheersNick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Archer Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 Hi Nick,Thanks for the info, as mentioned I used the silicone but did not stick the gasket to the head and let it go off first, I put it on then bolted it all up, I will do it the way you said Dave did, I did use a torque wrench also, I wonder just how tight I dare go with them?Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Nick Bassett Posted December 5, 2016 Area Representative Share Posted December 5, 2016 That should work Alan - at least it did for me.When I first removed my old manifold that I was replacing, I was amazed at just how loose the nuts were - I literally applied hardly any force and then it undid - in fact I thought the socket had slipped! At this point I had owned the car for 7 years and had covered several thousand miles without any issues or blowing! But this was a very different manifold of course being a one piece. Perhaps these race manifolds need a bit more care and attention?How tight to go? Difficult to say, but I would pinch everything up slowly and gradually tighten until you've gone as far as you dare - you are using studs & nuts, not bolts I take it? If it were the latter, I would be very careful as you're going straight into aluminum.I think if you stick the gasket to the head first and get a good seal, then apply more RTV on the manifold to gasket side, pinch it up and let it semi-set, then you should be OK.Perhaps drop DVA a line, as he will be able to advise...CheersNick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Archer Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 Cheers Nick, I will give it a go and let you know the outcome, it will only be for a short while as I have a new VVC lump to stick in :)Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Nick Bassett Posted December 5, 2016 Area Representative Share Posted December 5, 2016 Sounds exciting Alan.I have a 1.8 lump and 285 cams/forged pistons etc to go into mine too, but my 1.4 is going so well, I'm not sure what to do! A nice position to be in I guess!All the bestNick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Archer Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 You would not believe it Nick but I am in a similar position to you, my 1.8 X140 Xpower is a dream does not use a drop of oil and performs faultlessly, I so hope I don't end up regretting messing about with it. Remind me of that saying, If it isn't broke don't _ _ _ _ _!Apologies for hijacking your post OP.Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p.mole1 Posted December 6, 2016 Author Share Posted December 6, 2016 Hi Nick,Thanks for all the advice, I will order some Copper silicone RTV, must admit I have never heard of it! I will let you know how I get on.ThanksPhil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Nick Bassett Posted December 7, 2016 Area Representative Share Posted December 7, 2016 No problem Phil - good luck with it all & shout if you have any questions.CheersNick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted December 8, 2016 Share Posted December 8, 2016 Also its worth checking that you've got the correct nuts for the exhaust manifold/head. They are special nuts designed not to undo due their slight ovality - they are not standard hex nuts. See link below.http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-FX110041 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alastair B Posted December 8, 2016 Share Posted December 8, 2016 "Alastair, just to be clear, Nick Bassett said silicone copper gasket maker between gasket and cylinder head, on mine this was a must, and believe it or not I still have a ruddy blow from the head so need to take it off and do it again. It sounds like the engine is tapping when you drive along but it is just the manifold to head. "Alan - Pedant moment from me,.......Nick Bassett wasn't the person who informed me to use silicone copper gasket maker to the primaries to collector in the thread I refer to, it was Smithy77, I have copied the posting below that refers. I'm sure Nick does offer this advice but it was not given in the thread I was referring to, as my problem was primary to collector interface not primary to head interface. It may also work for Smithy77, it just didn't help me in the end.Smithy77 - Hampshire Offline member since: 25/09/2014 #8 Posted: 31st Aug 2016 - 12:52Did you use cooper RTV silicone to seal the joints? When I use this stuff the exhaust slips together like a slippery salmon (and comes apart just as easy). No bashing of the exhaust with a hammer required! Just some twisting and wiggling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p.mole1 Posted December 28, 2016 Author Share Posted December 28, 2016 Have finally received my exhaust system. First impressions its bloody heavy! a good bit heavier than the standard silencer and the welding is not the neatest,however I trial fitted the silencer and it seems like a good fit.I am concerned about the weight of the silencer and the strain its putting on the mounts. I will hopefully have a go at fitting the system in the next week or so, its a bit cold at the minute. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 Are you using the centre mount to support the front of the silencer ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p.mole1 Posted December 29, 2016 Author Share Posted December 29, 2016 The exhaust is about 2Kg heavier than the standard system not as bad as I thought felt much heavier.I am using the middle mount, the exhaust came with new rubber mounts which seem a lot more substantial. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Archer Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 I agree, quite surprising how heavy they are when you feel the weight of it off the car. Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 Good stuff. Once you use the centre mount, you don't need springs or bolts at the joint with the external primaries. Expansion from heat soon seals them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p.mole1 Posted December 29, 2016 Author Share Posted December 29, 2016 Been on for hours with a selection of hand files but its on! it was a very good fit although I had a hell of job mounting the silencer on to the primaries.I need to remove it all again to enlarge the hole in a few places and tidy it up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alastair B Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 p.mole1, I also initially struggled with getting the collector onto the pipes until an experienced friend helped me. He simply held the collector with one arm and whilst pushing firmly with the other arm, 'wiggled / oscillated' in multiple directions the whole collector onto the 4 x primaries (which were securely fastened to head to provide resistance). The collector basically 'crept' onto the primaries, it went on in about 3 minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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