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Corner Weight Scales


Slipper man

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  • 4 weeks later...

For the last 10 years, I have used 4 off 180kg bathroom scales to set up my hillclimb Supersprint  - 250 bhp Vx .

I created a flat floor by creating 4 epoxy cement square wheel pads c. 300 mm square and 4 more chassis height  measuring pads c.150 mm square on my concrete garage floor.  I used a long spirit level to get all 8 pads level to +/- 1mm. Suitable Salter scales can be sourced for c. £20 each which are ideal - thick glass top with digital readout. I also load the driver's side with a stack of plastic storage boxes filled with water and totaling 94 kg (my weight in racing kit + my foam seat).  I use a hydraulic jack on each corner in turn, letting the jack down slowly so the damper does not  temporarily support any of the car weight.

I use this set-up to measure corner weights and ride heights.  Perfect corner weighting is impossible with driver only in the car.  I find it best to go for the ride heights and a rake of 15 mm / m as Caterham recommend.  I find both fronts and rear left corner weights come out around 140 kg and rear right about 170 kg.  Currently, with lots of light-weighting, my car weighs 492 kg (ex driver and fuel) and around 590 kg on the start line.

If any of your corner weights exceed 180 kg, I believe that 250 kg digital bathroom scales are coming available!

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Amazon have loads of electronic scales which will go up to 180kg, but as I recall the problem with using electronic scales is that most automatically switch off after a short period. Does anyone have a recommendation for scales which don't do that, or a workaround for it?  Switching them back on would be OK, so long as they don't automatically zero themselves when switched on.

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On a more serious note, I made a set of these to work with very cheap mechanical scales. They reduce the scale reading by 50% and remove any possibility of the scale mechanism jamming due to sideways thrust. The plate on which the tyre rests is mounted on a bar which is free to self align and the bar is exactly halfway between the scale contact point and the floor contact point .A gentleman by the name of Ruggles apparently concieved the idea ....

The scales don't need to be particularly accurate, as long as they are all equally inacurate (IYSWIM). That can be checked by placing the same weight on all 4 corners and adjusting ...

medium_cornerweight1.JPG.6c4bc8a1ee47f071b6dac495209cf794.JPG

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Making the scales less accurate kind of defeats the object of the excerise.......

I did mention previously I use simple salter analog scales two per wheel with a bridge, so they are working in the middle of their range.

As for slip plates simply slice a tesco plastic bag down the sides fold in half and ly on the bridge under the wheel and you have a very effective slip plate for a mere 5p.

Consistently repeatable readings can be obtained this way - and repeatability is the key to any set up kit.

 

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Well, not really, The object of the excersise is a comparison between left weights and right . the absolute weights are not that important as long as the the percentages left to right/front to rear are very close.



The readings on the scales are interesting but not critical its the comparison left/right that's  critical


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I used Simon's and Dave's tape measure methods (cheers lads) when I fitted the Nitrons a few weeks ago. And when I borrowed some scales to check it, it was 49.96%/50.04% across the diagonals. I'm no driving legend so I would never have noticed that 0.04% deviation. And it all gets knocked around when you start carrying passengers and have different fuel loads anyway.

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