K Series Cam Belt

[Silver Machine]

I am hoping to change the cam belt and tensioner on my 1997 supper sport. I have never done this job before so any advice would be appreciated including links to previous threads.

 Did a little bit of exploring today and I think the hardest physical problem to overcome is  removing  the alternator pulley. I can lock the flywheel/cog thing with a screw driver but  I am not sure what size of bar to use as I don’t want to damage or snap anything.

Any help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

[SM25T]

I use a huge long breaker bar. Wirh the ring gear jammed, you won't break anything Don't fit the cam locking tool before you undo it though !

[ECR]

Alternator pulley ?

crank pulley perhaps .... Good luck. In my view it's a lot easier if a friend holds the bar in the ring gear whilst you undo the crank bolt. No doubt it's possible to do this on your own but ......

[Nigel R300]

Have look on YouTube for k series cam belt change ,their is a video showing you how to change the cam belt I found it very helpful

[paul richards]

[Jonathan Kay]

"A friend" writes:

I assembled my 7 but have very little mechanical experience. Changing the cam belt is the precise point at which I've chickened out and got someone else to do it. I strongly suspect I'm not alone. The effects of getting it wrong just seem too expensive.

I've watched the video and read lots of advice on BlatChat. But I'm not sure I'd fix the crank adequately with a screwdriver. I'd be more prepared to use a crank locking tool even if it meant taking the starter off. 

What could tip the balance for me (and others)?

• Someone standing next to me while I do mine
• Practising on another engine. 

Is it ever covered with a chance to do one at a GTKY7 session?

What I am not looking for, and wouldn't tip the balance:

• Further instructions
• Being told how easy it is.

A man's got to know his limitations.

Harry

[SM25T]

I agree that watching/helping someone is the best way to gain confidence. I didn't have this opportunity .... so I took the plunge after watching that video. My top tip is spots of Tippex in two places on each toothed pulley and belt edge. Transfer spots to new belt ... then you can't be a tooth out.

[john milner]

I removed the pulley fairly easily with the car in gear, brakes on and wheels chocked. Doing it back up though needed an assistant gently supporting a screwdriver in ring gear.

I think the crank locking tool method can only be used with the engine out. I may be wrong.

Consider changing the water pump.

[revilla]

The standard (Laser 4523) crank locking tool can be used in the starter motor hole. I used a stack of M10x35mm washers on the bolt behind the tool to make sure it couldn't move but I've since found them to be completely unnecessary; just clamped tightly by the top inner stud it won't go anywhere.

The "screwdriver in the ring gear" method seems to work fine for both removing and tightening the crank pulley if you have an assistant; as I pretty always work on the car alone, I prefer to whip the starter off and lock it solidly.

This has the added advantage that once you have rotated the crank to "safe position" (90 degrees BTDC on No.1 with all the pistons half way down the bores) you can lock it with no possibility of accidentally rotating it. I particularly like the idea of this when taking the head off as once the head is removed, any slight rotation of the crankshaft will disturb the cylinder liners and break the Hylomar seals at their bases, unless you clamp them. Being a belt and braces kind of bloke, to be safe I lock the crank and then clamp the liners as soon as the head comes off anyway!

As above, change the water pump while you are at it.

[Markiebabes]

Just did mine (1.8 VHPD K series ) with the help of a friend (Thanks again John Bio ) fiddly not to difficult but two pairs of hands is better ! 

Above all Take your time  

I bought a Gates kit ( Which included Water pump,Cam belt and Tensioner all in £90 Also worth changing crankshaft bolt for £9 and peace of mind  

You can get a specific VVC kit with both belt front and rear also make sure you get the correct belt length and the wide one is best 25.5 from memory  

[Silver Machine]

Thanks for all the advice and links. Parts should be arriving tomorrow so 900mm breaker bar at the ready.

PS . This is the first of several jobs to get the car back on on the road after a bout of ill health so further advice will probably be sought and much  appreciated as I progress through a few over standing maintenance jobs.