JosephClarke Posted April 25, 2016 Author Share Posted April 25, 2016 So no response :( I want to crack on with a bit of preventative maintenance this weekend so will try and see how I go,Next on the list is rust prevention/ treatment and servicing.Regarding surface rust on chassis , for treatment of surface rust I plan to use por15 as have used it before unless anyone has a better recommendation? Have purchased a POR15 starter kit to treat visible areas u top before jacking over winter to do underneath.For preventative maintenance I have been searching the forums to see what others are doing, my main concern is the chassis rails and the areas where the steel meets aluminum. ACF50 and Dinitrol 3125 seem to be the main things people recommend, are these considered the best for preventive maintenance? Going to order some ACF50 from reading it sounds perfect for aluminum meeting steel problem areas.I see lots of mentions of the "grot traps" i think I know what people mean but could someone post a link with pictures of a cleaning description so I can be sure I have got them. Would still love advice here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian B Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 Sorry can't help with the rust stuff apart from POR15 seems very common/popular.The grot traps are the gap at the sides of the engine bay, between the sideskins and the sides of the footwells (sorry no pictures I'm afraid) but hopefully that clarifies it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephClarke Posted April 25, 2016 Author Share Posted April 25, 2016 No that's a perfect description thanks, it's where I assumed people meant but I could not find an answer for certain, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 Before I assembled my last kit, I treated the grot traps and the chassis/ali joints with Dinitrol 3125, using an air compressor and this handy spraygun: It came with a nozzle extension, which was ideal for getting into narrow spaces. I first dunked the canister of 3125 in a bucket of warm water for half an hour -- made the spraying much easier to control.If you plan to treat your grot traps, it might be a good idea to wash them out with a high-pressure water jet first, then get them thoroughly dry -- no doubt SWMBO has a good hair dryer?As for chassis surface rust, I find that a light sanding down followed by a coat or two of Hammerite Satin Black is very effective. It has excellent adhesion and flows out well.JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephClarke Posted April 26, 2016 Author Share Posted April 26, 2016 Thanks for the tips really handy, I had to google SWMBO made me chuckle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephClarke Posted April 30, 2016 Author Share Posted April 30, 2016 Can of ACF-50 and some por 15 arrived today so going to sort a bit of battery acid spillage and treat the grot traps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephClarke Posted May 17, 2016 Author Share Posted May 17, 2016 Update on the carHad the sump foam removed, the cam belt changed and a few other bits and pieces done by Grant Taylor of OBNS motorsports in Norfolk, great guy and really helpful.Have moved onto my next set of jobs which was removing the sat tracking system the car had installed, I had to remove the center arm rest to do this, the whole system weighed in at 2kg so a little saving :)While doing it I found the hand brake clevis had no pin or clip in :S so am replacing it.While I have easy access to the prop shaft I notice it has grease nipples, what sort of grease do people recommend and how often should it be changed? Is there a way to know once you have put enough grease in it?Second question, my car has covers wrapped around the steering rods, it was done during the last MOT, any ideas as to why, the Gators are new so I am assuming it's to cover the joint at the upright end? I want to remove them as they look awful, not sure what the correct replacement is?/sites/default/files/images/users/13910/IMG_2046.JPGSecondly I want to remove these panels so I can access the bolts behind, removing all the screws seems to leave them still firmly attached, are they riveted in at the first rivet seen?/sites/default/files/images/users/13910/IMG_2039.JPGThanks all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 Propshaft UJs .... normal LM bearing grease ... same for wheel bearings. Squirt it in until it oozes out. You'll know ! Cover on steering arm ..... not pretty ..... mine have a split rubber hose covering them. You could leave them bare ... or paint with Smoothrite satin black . .. or use heatshrink sleeving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephClarke Posted May 17, 2016 Author Share Posted May 17, 2016 Thanks, now I have spent two hours reading up on wheel bearings and associated risks of lack of grease, haha I am slowly getting a drip feed of all the things that need to be done to the car.Wish all this information was in one place :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephClarke Posted May 17, 2016 Author Share Posted May 17, 2016 Regarding the steering arm I think the hideous covers were a substitute for the part circled in this picture, does anyone know if these are an MOT requirement or needed to actually stop ingress of dirt, or are they just for SVA?If not I assume I can just run without./sites/default/files/images/users/13910/2011%2002%2024_0209.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 The much neater ones in your latest photo are part of CC's SVA/IVA kit. While essential for SVA/IVA, they are not an MOT requirement. They do keep the track-rod adjustment nut/thread in a clean condition, though. You can run without, or you could do what I do and cover the thread and nut with insulating tape.JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stridey Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 On your panel, mine used black domehead screws about 15mm long to fix the long side panel from under the scuttle, holding both that panel and what I think they call the knee panel in as well...mind you, mine was built by a dealer and may have been subsequently modded, but I don't think so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stridey Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 I just checked the excellent build diary of a R500 http://www.caterhamr500.co.uk. On the second page in you can see the knee panels (in carbon) fixed by screws, you can see the cross heads... If it's good enough for that beautiful car it should be good enough for mine.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted May 17, 2016 Member Share Posted May 17, 2016 I get my nipples greased when it's up on the ramp for the MoT inspection. And maintain the right to bare arms.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephClarke Posted May 17, 2016 Author Share Posted May 17, 2016 Cheers, I removed all the cross heads but I think they are still held in by this rivet, just wondering if anyone can confirm before I drill it out?In red is the rivet and in blue is where all the cross heads ar that I removed,/sites/default/files/images/users/13910/IMG_2039_0.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyCam Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 The "red" one is a cross head on mine not a rivet. It needs to be removed to get the knee panel out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephClarke Posted May 19, 2016 Author Share Posted May 19, 2016 Thanks, as I suspected, will remove it.Ta Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephClarke Posted May 30, 2016 Author Share Posted May 30, 2016 Little update on my progress with jobs on the car,Firsty sadly I had my first break down in the car :( my alternator adjuster bracket sheared at the bolt end as it is joined to the engine, taking the belt with it. I have ordered a new adjustable bracket as per the below picture from an Elise specialist, so once it arrives should be back on the road./sites/default/files/images/users/13910/2014-05-2412.20.402.jpgSecondly I decided to investigate the tracking system the car had had fitted, I couldn't figure out where it was installed until I traced the wiring and realised it was under the transmission tunnel cover, upon removing the cover I found the handbrake had been reassembled with no clevis pins so replaced those,I removed all of the alarm system including wiring GPS tracker sirens etc (it was non functional) and weighed in at 2KG so a nice saving :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted May 30, 2016 Member Share Posted May 30, 2016 2kg for £0? That's a very good ratio.:-)Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephClarke Posted May 30, 2016 Author Share Posted May 30, 2016 I was pleased! The main bulk of it was a huge great powersupply for the tracking portion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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