VX Dry Sump Plumbing

[Tazio]

Now I have my new exhaust on, and alternator fitted, the dry sump plumbing is problematic, the scavenge side is ok, it's the pressure side that is the bu--er. I did want to run it low level but.... So is it ok to run it up and over the bell housing?

 

If you have any pictures it would be great.

 

Also I want to insulate the wiring on the engine diagonal from the exhaust, any recommendations as the most appropriate material?

[Paul Deslandes]

I fear you might have drain back issues if you run the hoses over the bellhousing with short term lack of lubrication to the engine, although I have no experience of trying it.  It would stop all the oil in the tank draining back into the dry sump over time though, which would be a bonus.  Underneath, protected by the mating flange between the bellhousing and engine, is best although I deduce that you have a problem with that.

My wiring down the exhaust side of the engine is run along the lower outer chassis frame member rather than the diagonal.  In my case it's only the alternator cables that take that route.  All the rest - engine temp sensors, lights etc. - come down the intake side and across in front of the engine.  If you still have the original crank sensor, that still has to go over the top of the engine under the plug cover, although some have rerouted theirs to reduce plug noise from upsetting the crank signal to the ECU.

Which side di you end up fitting the alternator?

[Tazio]

Thanks Paul, its getting past the exhaust that is the issue, so looks like I'll have to follow the sideskin and clip it onto the side reinforcing. I was trying to route it so gravity worked in my favour but that doesn't seem to be a workable choice.

 

The alternator is on the exhaust side, had to cut off 12mm from the tube through the engine mount to ensure the pulleys lined up, but its in so I'm pleased.

[ECR]

I'd try to avoid running wiring down the chassis diagonal. I ran mine that way for a while but it gets VERY hot. I drilled out a few of the upper rail sidepanel rivets and replaced them with cable tie saddles and routed the wiring that way.

My crank sender wiring doesn't run under the plug cover but is P clipped to the cam cover cap heads on the exhaust side. It's important that the plug/socket on the end of the crank sender is oriented in the same way as original. It will run fine if it's upside down but heavy rain will fill the plug with water and give a mysterious missfire. You'll see what I mean if you look at them.

[Tazio]

Thanks Roger, the wiring on the diagonal is the original K series, water temp, fan etc, I'll rewire them entirely and put them on the induction side.

 

The crank sensor is external, I asked for the internal one to be removed, the trigger is part of the crank pulley, uses a standard Ford sensor, externally wired, again on the induction side.

 

What I'd like is a picture of the route the tank bottom hose follows to the pump if poss.

[Jon Stewart]

 

There are a few photos in this album Alan

 

http://plus.google.com/u/0/100408799597966585898/posts/ioiA8y6JdF6?pid=6029895867244356978&oid=100408799597966585898

 

[Tazio]

Jon, thanks for those, so much simpler with an up and over manifold !., lol.

[k.russell]

Mine is clipped to the block as it comes from the tank, then runs back out on the lower crucifix to loop into the front of the sump with a 90 degree elbow, ps the blue elbows are 1/2" bsp I have a plug if you want, but they are readily available. If you need sooner.

[k.russell]

[k.russell]

[Mavic82]

Can't offer much Alan it is obviously much simpler with the Caterham sump pan.

can you post some photos of your car so we can see the issue?

[Tazio]

Kev,

 

Thanks for all that, I'll get a plug tomorrow, I may have sorted the routing, if I can find a couple of P clips that take a 10 mm bolt then I should be able to keep it away from the exhaust..