Fuel Filter

[Gary Stone]

How often to change the fuel filter? Time or mileage? or can it be fushed through..

 

[Nigel R300]

Every 24000 miles according to the service schedule 

i have never changed one so don,t know what's involved

Nigel

[SM25T]

Can be a swine to undo the unions on the filter. Otherwise easy enough.

[Gary Stone]

Guess I should change mine then at just over 30,000 miles. While it's off the ground. 

[SM25T]

If you haven't replaced the four flexible fuel hoses, now is a good time. Just over a metre of 8 mm fuel hose and some proper fuel hose clamps.

[Gary Stone]

Good thought SM25T. The car is nearly 13 years old now & rubber does'nt last forever. I had to replace fuel hose on my old car after splits occured.

[SM25T]

Make sure you get the right stuff to handle current fuels with ethanol content. I have the designation on a bit of hose if you need the reference. Cut crimps off carefully and reuse the hose end fittings. Cheap as chips.

[Gary Stone]

Can the filter be obtained from local motor factor? Pt number?

If you have that hose ref handy Ian i'm sure it will be useful.

 

Cheers

[revilla]

Pretty sure it's Land Rover ESR4065. @SM25T can you confirm that looks right?

[Gary Stone]

Thanks. I have filter off now. It's marked Unipart GFF 7119. But have also noted above pt number.

Thanks

Both numbers being ESR 4065 & GFF 7119 work fine to give you the right filter.

 

[SM25T]

Will get back to you ref hose later today. Ian

[SM25T]

SAE30 R9 is the stuff. 8mm bore.

[Gary Stone]

Thanks Ian

[Gary Stone]

Easy enough job changing the filter. All done.

[oldbutnotslow]

This is a standard service part on the 24k service or every 2 or 3 years

The fuel  filter a common part and is fitted to a rover metro 16v Also Land Rover esr3117 Daewoo and some GMC cars

They are freely available from a parts shop

WIX wf8064

HFF 217

MAHLE KL158

Don't back flush them as you will stand the chance of disturbing all the crap that may be in there. They are fitted in the direction of the flow arrow on the side of the filter. They are not expensive.

Its far easier to take the filter off and remove the bottom J steel hose in a vice. Take care as you will get fuel spillage. The hardest part is undoing the stupid clamp  nuts and bolts. These sit behind the carpet behind the driver seat. I always refit Rivnuts as it makes it far easier to refit

 

[Bradders]

I think I need to change my fuel filter, as after running the tank quite low(naughty boy), I'm getting bad hesitation on acceleration and a rough idle.

Being a mechnically idiot, is there anywhere I can go to for a step by step guide, and location?

Cheers,

Bradders.

[Mankee]

Here is Myles' great guide:

http://www.alcester-racing-sevens.com/fuel_filter.htm

[Bradders]

Thanks Mankee, much appreciated.

[john milner]

I'm going to change my fuel filter in the next few days and have been reading the guide at http://www.alcester-racing-sevens.com/fuel_filter.htm

One thing I don't understand is how the filter can be rotated on the solid pipe while it is still attached to the J pipe and free bracket. Is there enough clearance without bending the pipe too much or have I misunderstood something?

 

 

[Foggy]

Hi John,

I've just done this very same job and too be honest, I think you're over complicating things.  I'm no spanner man and it's really not that complicated if you follow the guide in your link.

I found it easier to slacken off the hose end connection and the j-pipe connection before removing the filter.  Once you've got the filter in your hands you will see it's just a matter of using two spanners (or adjustable's) to separate the j-pipe from the filter.  As the guide says, refitting is a reversal of the procedure.

 

Unless it's me that has misunderstood your question?

Hope that helps?

 

[john milner]

Thanks. I haven't seen anyone else make my comment so I probably am over complicating things. I just couldn't see how a bracket that is designed to secure the filter close to the bulkhead would have enough space to allow the filter to be unspun from the solid pipe. I get the hose removal part.

 

[Foggy]

Ah, I think I see what you're getting at.  Once the flexible hose connector and the solid j-pipe connector line are released, remove the filter completely from the bulk head with the j-pipe still attached and then remove the j-pipe.  Does that make more sense?

[john milner]

Thanks I did get all of that. What I couldn't get is that the bracket and J pipe are wider than the filter and still attached to the filter when the filter is unspun. As the filter is fairly tight to the bulkhead I could not see how there would be space to unspin the filter with the bracket and J pipe sticking out sideways. There must be plenty of give in the solid pipe to allow sufficient clearance for this not be a problem.

 

 

[anthonym]

Hi John, I just did this myself recently and it's not as easy as it sounds until after one has done it ;-)

I didn't disconnect the J pipe until assembly removed from the car, because it was so very tight and I feared bending something. Even then it involved two opposing spanners and a lot of force ( bearing in mind I am not generally viewed as strong).

Likewise removing the fuel hoses involved stiff connections and two spanners taking care that my force was applied to the opposing nuts and nothing else. Wth rags beneath (or maybe it was a bucket or both) to catch any fuel). 

Then I disconnectd the bracket holding the filter. Another surprise because while easy to get at the nuts behind the driver's seat, the two shaped holes in the bracket are different, so once merely loosened as opposed to removed, the whole thing fell to the floor. No harm done, but surprised me. 

at this point as above, removing the J pipe was not such a worry as regards how much force I applied. 

Anthony

access: wheel off.

p.s. Like foggy says...:-)

 

[john milner]

The filter and hoses have now been replaced. With regards to my query about how can a filter be unspun while having a bracket attached I found that this was not necessary as all I did was hold the silver adaptor and undid the brass fitting which was the same top and bottom. None of it was particularly tight or needed a WD40 soaking. I think the filter spinning method may only be needed if for some reason you want to leave the adaptors attached to the brass fittings.