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Spare wheel - leave it on the car or remove it?


finmac

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Wonder if I can get some advice about:

 

1. Pros and cons of having a spare on the car?

 

2. If spare and carrier removed how much weight saved? Also what experience does any one have of the tyre "inflation cans".

 

3. How much hassle involved in removing the carrier - it appears to be welded to the rear chassis tubes? Also where do the brackets the wheel bolts on to attached and how to remove them (guess I need to remove the alloy sheet acting as a "boot" floor)?

 

thanks

 

 

 

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1) Pros - you have a spare if you get a flat. And it's something else for a Volvo to hit.

 

Cons - it weighs a lot and looks sh*te.

 

2) Depends which wheels/tyres you have, but shouldn't be much less than 15kg and could easily be 20kg.

 

Never had to use my Tyre Weld in about 20k miles of not having a spare.

 

3) Use a dremel and it'll take no more than about 30mins. The securing hole for the spare can only be properly removed with a reskin. You can put a bung in it, or use it for your number plate light.

 

 

In short, get rid of it. You can make it removable for resale or to carry luggage if you want...I have pictures somewhere.

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if you cut it off with a hack saw then you can make some lugs to go inside the tubes so you can reattach it. Put the numberplate light on a hollow threaded rod from the hole in the rear skin and bob's yer uncle.

 

The carrier itself is 2kg and the wheel/tyre could be 10 times that. And its all high up and right at the end of the car....

 

HOOPY 500 kg R706KGU

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Andy

 

Thanks for the advice. Be very interested to see your photos.

 

How exactly (a bit of a description would be great!) do you make it "removable" (as it would be handy very occasionally for carrying luggage).

 

cheers

 

Fin

 

THE ONLY SE7EN IN THE OUTER HEBRIDES!

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Like Richard I've never reattached mine despite some long trips (though granted I was travelling solo and could use the passenger space for luggage). So it might be worth thinking through this a good bit. If you don't want to reattache it you can cut it off further back...

 

Hoops description was good. If you search the archives there are plenty more in depth descriptions (though any links to pictures that I posted will no longer work at the minute...).

 

 

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I got mine removed at Millwood and I haven't missed it once. I also think the car looks better, and it means you can return to the pie shop without worrying about weight 😬 *thumbup*. Admittedly, I don't tend to do long tours in it so i haven't had cause to miss the potential luggage space. (but I've got an estate if that becomes a problem)

 

I would just "have it off" . . . . if you know what I mean 😬 😬

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You can cut the chassis tubes off about 20mm proud of the reaskin with a pipe cutter - the type for 15mm copper pipe does a perfect clean job and does not damage the powder coating.

 

To bung the ends up, best thing I've seen used is the stoppers off the end of walking sticks! Perfect fit!

 

Arnie Webb

The Fat Bloke 😳 in a not so Slow Vauxhall *wink*

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Being a smart arse, I had brackets made from aluminium block which bolt onto the car at the point from which the carrier would otherwise emerge.

These brackets are raised to accomodate 13" wheels and are 1/2" offset with a slot at the top to take the carrier bolts (as in demountable carrier as opposed to permanently fixed ones).

This works a treat. I can have the spare attached or not in minutes as the use of the car demands. Without the spare, the brackets hold the number plate and light.

 

Caterham convinced me not to rely on the airosol gunge by telling me not to rely on it for more than 24hrs, and only to travel slowly if using it - also you have to find a tyre fitter willing to clean out the wheel before fitting the replacement tyre.

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IMVHO a Clamshell wing car seems to suit the spare wheel (as in fast tourer) and the balls out lightweight cycle wing machine the 'no spare' look.

 

I was advised by a tyre fitter to NEVER use the Finilac type stuff as the imbalance it caused was horrible and the cleaning out afterwards even worse. Better to just get the AA/RAC/National Breakdown etc to haul it back. I can't actually comment 'cos I carry a spare wheel, but HAVE had to use this spare once (within the first 5,000 miles of ownership too;plasterboard nail to be exact).

I suppose too that a spare wheel might stop some of the impact damage of a fairly high speed rear end hit. Just remember the location of that aluminium fuel tank!

 

Clamshell Club Founder Member.

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Firstly, the RAC and AA can be told that car was designed and built not to carry a spare. My current 7 has never had a carrier and was delivered so.

I had a high speed rear tyre blow out on the A1M and it took the RAC 2.5 hours and still they never came. It was a 14" gash in the side wall that no spray can would fix.

The RAC faffed about trying to find a call out tyre place at 9pm on a Friday evening that had Yoko A021R in 205 13 60 format.

Inspite of my trying to convince them that this would not be possible they had to follow procedure.. they failed of course. After 2.5 hours I was picked up by fellow BC 7'er Paul Thompson. He was trailing home from the same Cadwell track day that I had attended.

The RAC were sorry for the slow response and explained that that particular Friday evening had been esp busy. I got some conpensation.

 

Secondly, some tyre places can conspire against the tyre weld product that they see as a threat and try to sell you a new tyre making them more profit than just a repair... The operatives are programmed to tell you it breaks down the inner tyre wall over time and you must buy a new tyre.

I have used it and never had wheel balance problems. It leaves a very fine film that is no problem remove.

Demon Tweeks even do a racing version of this product...

The Holts version has an approved by the National Tyre org, emblem. I have not confirmed this.

 

Thirdly, Imagine a shunt big enough to rupture the fuel tank. I think all 7'ers should review what sort of neck support they have, how close they are to the roll bar etc etc. The spare wheel may spread the load but you may be unconsious or have a broken neck. Better to have a ruptured fuel tank and be able to get out of the car PDQ.

Fit the crash protection kit that Caterham sell.

 

I agree on the touring version looking good with a spare and a racing version looking good without it.....

 

My thoughts on the matter.

 

/Steve

 

My racing pics, 7 DIY, race prep. Updated often here

Photo's of the year here

Hants (North) and Berkshire Area club site here

 

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thanks, chaps. This will be the first alteration to my car this year. Admitteldy I quite like the tourer look as well, so will go for the removable option (put spare wheel on for long journeys and take spare wheel off for track days) *wink*

 

 

 

 

1400 Supersport with clamshell wings *smile*

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