magister Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 ☹️ POBC What is involved in replacing these? - are there replaceable parts or it new wishbones? - does anyone have a link to an exploded diagram of the setup? Thanks PaulB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 If it's the spherical bearing type lots in the archives - I have a new one in stock if you're desparate. You still over near bosworth ? There is a circlip and then the bearing comes out which can be anywhere between falling out and 10t press. I did mine in situe with a threaded bar sockets and washers. Bit of loctite when you put back in as they can move, simulating play. Caterham ones expensive other cheaper ones available. Let me know if you need it dropping off. Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magister Posted May 1, 2014 Author Share Posted May 1, 2014 Thanks Ian. It has only failed on the near side, So I might take you up on your kind offer. I think it is a spherical bearing (deffo not a trunnion type) - is there any other type. I assume it is a matter, of taking off the large nut and removing the circlip. What happens next? Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 Usually a LOT of swearing and sweating. Removing lower wishbone, blue flames, big vice, sockets and studding/nuts ..... damaged hearing when it finally lets go !! Search for a recent thread on this ... look for 'spherical' I have a tame supplier of the SB if anyone needs one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 Mine was easy. Once you've removed the nyloc nut lift the whole vertical link up and out of the lower WB. Place it safely to one side whilst you work on it. The circlip is a bit weird. It doesn't have any eyes - it's more akin to 2 or 3 layers of slinky spring which I got out in tact with a couple of fine screwdrivers. I don't have a spare one of these. I guess Caterham mids isn't too far for you either. Regards Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domus Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 It may be a standard internal cir clip or it could be a spirolox. They are interchangeable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Howard Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 Hi Paul I have changed mine several times. It is much easier if you remove the wishbone completely then you can drift the bearing out with it resting on a solid surface. I have never had to resort to heat. Tap the new bearing in with a smear of loctite. You should be able to re-use the circlip. Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magister Posted May 1, 2014 Author Share Posted May 1, 2014 Thanks for all the responses - will have a at dismantling it tomorrow evening. PaulB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Durrant Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 Paul Take care when removing the lower damper bolt and make sure you have the correct sized allen key, it is 7/32 AF not metric. If you have penetrating oil to hand give it a good soak overnight. When replacing the lower damper bolt use plenty of copperslip. I suspect the damage to the existing joint is down to Becky's kerb hopping Edited by - Mark Durrant on 1 May 2014 20:56:31 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeckyB Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 😳 Could've been my little excursion at Loton, up onto the top of the bank at Fallow Becky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Riches Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 Funny, never seem to have all these problems with good old fashioned trunnion Nigel, in jest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magister Posted May 3, 2014 Author Share Posted May 3, 2014 So...... bought the bits from Redline - ordered Friday, arrived Saturday morning Started to remove wishbone - ok until trying to get the bottom damper bolt out - the hex bolt has a bit of sheared off Allen key stuck in it - some one in the past has obviously either over tightened when assembling, or failed to get a very tight bolt out. ☹️ I guess I will have to remove the damper with the wishbone to try to get the bit of Allen key out. PaulB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Durrant Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 Paul I suggest you remove the lower wishbone with the damper attached. I also recommend you order a replacement lower damper bolt as I expect you will need to cut the existing bolt to remove. I doubt you will be able to remove the head of the broken allen key so my have to cut the bolt between the wishbone and damper bush. As I posted earlier soak everything with a good penetration oil, not WD40. There are plenty of posts in Techtalk on the difficulties encountered when removing lower damper bolts. Once removed make sure you use plenty of copperslip on the bolt so you do not encounter a similar problem in the future. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldbutnotslow Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 Just to add to the sage advice given. The bolt fits through the rear hole in the wishbone through the damper eyelet and then into the threaded section of the wishbone at the front. This is where it will most likely be seized. That said the alloy sleeve in the middle of the eyelet does corrode to the bolt. People make the mistake of fitting the damper to the lower wishbone with the top damper fixing in place. The bolt has a fine thread pitch and is therefore easy to cross thread because of the spring pressure that you are fighting against. As has been said its not uncommon for them to be stuck fast. you will need to CAREFULLY cut the bolt on both sides of the damper eyelet in order to free the damper from the wishbone. Try to push the eyelet away from the wishbone when cutting the forward one and start with this one which may let you withdraw the remaining rear half of the bolt if you are lucky. A tip to stop you damaging the bits that are important is to get a couple of repair washers cut slots in them and fit them on to the bolt in between the rubber bush and the wishbone and then cut in between them. Try to force the damper as far to the rear as possible as you want to be able to grab as much of the bolt in the threaded end as you can with mole grips. You may need some heat on the remaining bit of bolt. One last thing get Mick to include the alloy damper eyelet sleeve as well as it may be that which is the problem and they really aren't expensive if its not this. Replace with spirolox not the normal circlip as there have been instances of these failing... ask Mick. Make sure the the groves that they sit in are cleaned out properly and that the spirolox is fitted properly home as it is easy to not get this bit right which can what shall we say........ cause problems! Edited by - oldbutnotslow on 4 May 2014 07:54:04 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domus Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 A good tip is to remove this Allen bolt each year to make sure it will move and to cover it's whole length in copper grease. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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