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Supply for satnav


Nickboham

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I have a old (1992) Kent engined 7 and would like to install a cigar lighter socket to power a Tomtom satnav. I have purchased the socket from Halfords, along with cable etc. and would like to know how best to connect it. Is there a spare switched output on the ignition switch? Would it need an inline fuse? 5A?

 

Simple instructions, I.e. Those aimed at an intelligent 10 year old, would be appreciated!

 

Nick

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I've a battery master switch, and connected the socket directly to the +ve side of the starter solenoid (same terminal as the big red power lead), with a 10A inline fuse. I ran the earth wire to the common underdash earthing point. As I also wanted to use the socket to plug in a battery conditioner, I bypassed the ignition switch.

 

As JK says, there's much info in the archives. Try a search on "12v and socket".

 

JV

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You've spotted the point about charging. Most of what you'll find in the archives is people who do want charging, with circuits that do it that way.

 

My first choice would be an existing "Accessory" fuse in the fusebox, which usually means ignition-switched.

 

I don't know the layout of the fuse box in your model: does anyone have a diagram?

 

Jonathan

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Yes, I found the archive dealt with the more complex situations, but didn't deal with the basics.

I have the wiring diagram from the build manual, but although it shows a spare fuse position, I strongly suspect that Caterham used this for the intermittent wash wipe module in my car. How would I use such an accessory fuse? This approach sounds good to me.

Nick

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That sounds good. Have a look at the output side of that and see if you could get another wire onto the connector. (You could use a Scotchlok connector onto the existing wire but opinion on their reliability seems to be split.)

 

More basic stuff: rubber grommets where you go through panels and tie down cable runs so they can't flap anywhere.

 

Have you got a multimeter already?

 

Jonathan

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Unfortunately, not easy to get to; the covered loom is right up against the fuse/relay box, so I would need to remove the fuse box from the bulkhead. This is not easy either - the isecuring set screws go in from behind the heater! Could be done, but is there an alternative?

Thanks for the tips and yes, I have a multimeter.

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The Lucas wiper module has 2 five-way plugs (in and out?, all used) and the normal wiper switch has a four way plug plus two separate single spades on the sides. As I don't know which wire comes from the fuse box, in which wire would I be interested? All wires going into the plugs mentioned have about 30-40 mm available for fixing Scotchloks if that is what you mean by "get to". They are not available for putting additional spade connectors.
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As John says,much easier. NB It won't be isolated by the master switch if you do it the same way as mine:

New wire from battery positive terminal

Fuse in that wire close to the battery

Cigar lighter socket firmly fixed (in-panel or surface mounting)

Grommets in panels and tether wires

Check polarity before use

 

Jonathan

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Quoting Jonathan Kay: 
As John says,much easier. NB It won't be isolated by the master switch if you do it the same way as mine:

New wire from battery positive terminal

Fuse in that wire close to the battery

Cigar lighter socket firmly fixed (in-panel or surface mounting)

Grommets in panels and tether wires

Check polarity before use

 

Jonathan

True, but it will be if you run the wire from the solenoid +ve terminal as I described above, because this supply comes directly from the BMS.

 

JV

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Job done. I made a bracket, fixed to one of the wiper motor mounting bolts, along with the earth connection, fed the supply via a 10A (overdone?) inline fuse from the battery connection on the solenoid and bob's your uncle.

 

Thanks you guys, for giving me the support to do the job.

 

Cheers,

Nick

 

 

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