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Nitron shocks revalving


Birkin S3 ZA.

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Hi Guy's if you need to know how to strip and revalve your Nitron shocks I would be happy to help.

Having got a new set last year and asking for a softer settings, with adjustment right out it was to hard for racing never mind road use.

Sending them back to Nitron for revalve inc post was about 480 pounds *confused*

Since I do Lots of revalves on shocks for motor bikes I just opend them up, had some shims the right sizes 2 hours later job done.

Used a bit of bike no how and fitted two stage shim stacks for the compression, and it works very well.

Bleeding them is easy and the gas pressure is in the end of the shock with a piston that hits a step in the body and won't come out from the top.

Oil you can get from a yamaha bike shop S1 shock oil, shims you can get from Race tech in the states, Packet of 10 shims per size for a few $, or a motor bike shock repairer if he repairs sachs rear shocks.

One of the few shims that have a 12mm id hole, if you would like I could take one off my car strip and take some pics and post them with the shim stacks for comp and rebound.

Chris.

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Hi Chris, I would be very interested as now am using car only on the road and would like to soften up the damping, particularly on the rear. Seems to cost a fortune at Nitron to change it so have just been using progressive springs on the rear which work well. Amazed you have not had a lot of replies. Worked on most things but not dampers (well apart from the old friction type on my MG PB's!).

So if you can do this would really welcome it.

 

Peter

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Chris

 

I would be very interested in seeing this and getting more info on shims required to change the damping characteristics. It may well dispell some of the myths of how these shocks can be customised. I have seen a video of the Quantum shocks being revalved and it looked fairly straight forward. Not sure how you would know what you have achieved without putting them on a shock dyno though, apart from just fitting them and driving the car? Could be a time consuming exercise.

 

1 vote from me anyway.

 

Nick

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Ok I will plan to remove one of my front shocks and take some pictures and give some specs for the shim stacks, should take me 30 min to do.

It's one job that looks difficult but once done you get over it, A bit like fitting and timing cams the first time.

You get a feel for it after a few years, But to change them a bit softer or harder is easy. Just write it down as you go along each time you change shims and it's easy to go back if you go to far.

It would be easy with a dyno to test the changes, but how it feels on the road is the best test for me.

It's not that big of a job to remove the shocks. you would get a good improvment after a days work.

Very heavy rain for this weekend, so will post something soon.

Chris.

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Shock has been stripped and photos taken, my son Stuart will do most of the other stuff. He has to pay for his drives some how, I will do some drawings for the shim stacks and how to change them.

Will try and set up a page on mylotusseven.com

chris

 

Edited by - Birkin S3 ZA. on 20 Jan 2013 13:16:26

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Quoting bluenose: 
Chris

 

This is the video for the Quantum Shock revalving

 

Ride Tech website is quite interesting. here

 

Nick

 

 

Who's the handsome fella in that video *tongue* ? How you doing, Nick?

 

Quoting Rob Walker: 
It would make an interesting tech article for Low Flying

 

That could be arranged. In fact, I'd be plenty willing to host a 'how-to' at Unit 9 if there was enough interest.

 

Edited by - Laurence Wilson on 23 Jan 2013 22:13:01

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Laurence

 

Good thanks. Ended up getting some second hand Nitrons and am in the process of getting the suspension re powdercoated, rebushed and ready to go back on the car.

 

How's the rebuild going, must be nearly there now?

 

Nick

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Quoting bluenose: 
How's the rebuild going, must be nearly there now?

 

Sort of *tongue* Was it Myles who christened his car Project Scope Creep? I appreciate the true definition of that phrase, now ;) That and I'm still in the throws of house buying — offered on a flat in October and got involved in a bidding war *mad* — so I haven't had a whole lot of time to dedicate to it. But it's still there and all the expensive bits have been bought 😬

 

Thinking about it some more: if someone wants to pen an article for Low Flying, in addition to demonstrating the rebuild process we have the shock dyno here — so we could explain how to read the dyno plots and illustrate how changes made affect the performance.

 

I hear a lot of people arguing the merits of different builds and 'special' valvings — dampers that are soft in bump and stiff in rebound or equal bump to rebound — but there really is no art to taking them apart. It's a lot easier than building an engine *tongue* Perhaps this is an opportunity to dispel some myths?

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Laurence

 

Good to hear you are nearly there on the rebuild *smile*

 

Regarding shock rebuilding, revalving etc, are your Quantum shocks very similar to the Nitrons, infact would they use the same shims or are they completely different? It would be really good to look at different shocks on a dyno and dispell a few myths by revalving/shimming them. As I understand it from talking to you when you popped round you can set a shock up to what ever bump/rebound curve you want if you have the right shims. Would love to see a demo of this process.

 

Nick

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I am having a slight problem with this thread. I can see it would be easy to move a few shims here or there but that is not the problem. How do you know that your re shim is any good? what pramiters are you working to? On oneway dampers how do you know what the best bump and rebound is. what happens if you change the ratio. Or is it just a "i will try this and see how it goes"?

 

David

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Nick: We use a 1/2" ID shim but we also keep some metric sizes.

 

As I understand it from talking to you when you popped round you can set a shock up to what ever bump/rebound curve you want if you have the right shims.

 

There really is nothing clever about it *tongue*

 

This is too good an article to miss ! I'd be there like a shot, pen in hand, but we now live in France ....

Someone, please ...

 

More than happy to make this happen *thumbup*

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David: sorry — missed your post, there.

 

If you're really keen to know how you would predict a damper force/velocity curve, I might point you in the direction of Milliken and Optimum G (see the Technical Papers).

 

But what we're discussing here are incremental changes — the sort of thing you might do in the pit or paddock.

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This will be good fun guys, even with a dyno you can get it so wrong ask Nitron.

Mine were very hard, even with all the information and spring rates I gave them.

I like to try them on the road and look at the video from a track day.

The one thing I will say is your A arms should move up and down with as little friction as possible, I use a vesconite hilube bushing and it works very well.

Then do your spring rates, and last do the shocks. This is how I have set up bikes for years, and then It all starts to work.

Busy doing the article then we can go from there.

 

Chris.

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