garybee Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 I had to replace the [split] boots on the upper ball joints yesterday as the 7 was due an MOT. it's pretty obvious why they split, with the suspension in full droop they're pinched hard between the joint and the upright. I've greased them up on the outside to hopefully give them a couple more 'jack-ups' before they will inevitably split again but I don't like the naff arrangement though. Is anyone aware of any different ball joints that could be fitted to give a bit more room for the ball joint? I don't want to be fitting rose joints at great expense to stop a 50 pence boot splitting but would happily replace the ball joints with something different if it could be done for sensible money. Thanks in advance Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 The rubbers off the front anti roll bar can be fitted to the top joints as replacements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eugene Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 I think he's asking for different ball joints, not different rubbers... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garybee Posted November 17, 2012 Author Share Posted November 17, 2012 Either would be helpful actually. Essentially I am after any suggestions that could possibly alleviate the split boot issue. I was thinking about a really old fashioned leather boot that covered the whole joint. Might get an odd look from the MOT tester but would still comply I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted November 18, 2012 Share Posted November 18, 2012 The cause of your issue may be the machining of your uprights. When I designed the pins for the rosejointed bulk buy, on measuring several different uprights of varying ages, it became apparent the consistency of the taper is poor. Also the dimensions of the taper on the standard balljoints has significant variation. Its possible therefore you have a mix of "worse case" parts. On full droop the rubbers should not be crushed. Compressed a small amount yes, crushed, no. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garybee Posted November 18, 2012 Author Share Posted November 18, 2012 One possibility I suppose is that someone may have fitted alternative track rod ends at some point. I've searched for alternative part numbers for these a few times and have come across lots of conflicting advice (and even more people who just say "do a search" ). It seems that there are alternatives available with slight differences to the taper that could make it sit a little lower. If it is the machining in the upright at fault, I'll probably just have to live with it. I suppose I could ream the hole out and freeze in a tapered bush but that would be a lot of faffing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frying Pan Posted November 18, 2012 Share Posted November 18, 2012 Gary - I've got to do the same on my car before te MOT. Is it easy enough to change them? Any points worth noting? Did you use a splitter or the 'clout with a big hammer' technique? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mankee Posted November 18, 2012 Share Posted November 18, 2012 Sometimes they can be seized into the upright, which is a bit of a pain. But there is a kind method using a nut and a bolt to "pop" the pin out of the taper without resorting to massive hammers, ball joint splitters and lots of blue language. mind you, if you are changing the ball joints, it doesn't matter if you shred the boots, I guess... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garybee Posted November 18, 2012 Author Share Posted November 18, 2012 Quoting 7heavensoon: Gary - I've got to do the same on my car before te MOT. Is it easy enough to change them? Any points worth noting? Did you use a splitter or the 'clout with a big hammer' technique? I started with the clouting and got nowhere. So I used a 3/8" drive double depth socket positioned between the retaining nut and the hub (with a bit of packing so as not to damage the hub) wound the nut off which popped the ball joint's taper out easily. I would suggest this method as being the easiest and also the kindest on the car. Edited by - garybee on 18 Nov 2012 18:48:43 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted November 18, 2012 Share Posted November 18, 2012 Quoting Mankee: Sometimes they can be seized into the upright, which is a bit of a pain. But there is a kind method using a nut and a bolt to "pop" the pin out of the taper without resorting to massive hammers, ball joint splitters and lots of blue language. mind you, if you are changing the ball joints, it doesn't matter if you shred the boots, I guess... here Works every time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frying Pan Posted November 18, 2012 Share Posted November 18, 2012 Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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