CB Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 I am in the process of building a Sigma engined car and the throttle cable is so long ths the pedal top (where the cable locates) looks like it needs bending a good 6cm or so just to take the slack up. It looks like an awful lot, but is it normal? Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParsleyTheLion Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 I didn't bend the pedal at all on mine. Just shortened the cable. Bending seems a bit unnecessarily brutal to me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CB Posted October 30, 2011 Author Share Posted October 30, 2011 sadly the cable I've got only has about 2 cm of adjustment.... maybe I need to check I've been sent the right cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ. Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 I bent the pedal on mine as the starting position looked all wrong anyway. The way I did it was to take it to my vice, bend it less than I thought, put it on the car and repeated it a couple of times. One thing to watch out for was that once it was in the ideal position, it wasn't possible to get the bolt in or out, so make sure you keep the bolt in while bending it 😬 Duncan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Downing Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 I had exactly same thought, mine needed about 2" or so of bending, which kind of felt too much. I spoke to Caterham and they basically said to just go for it, so I did. In the end, I still didn't bend it far enough, and with the pedal at rest there was slack in the cable even fully adjusted - but at least the pedal could get the throttle fully open. It's at Dartford now for the PBC with gaffer tape holding the cable end to the pedal box We'll have to see what they make of it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinH Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 You have to get seriously medieval on it if you want it to be in the right place. I took mine on and off several times and put it in a big bench vice and went to town on it with a crow bar. Its worth it in the end. I also did the trick with a bit of PVC plumbing waste pipe inside the hoop to extend the reach to the left a bit to help with the heel-and-toe action. Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin J Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 Only just read this so you have probably bent it by now........... I inserded a long bladed pozi screwdrive into the top of the shaft, a block of wood under the pedal & applied just enough force & it bent with no problems.It is a little disconcerting how far you have to bend it but trust me you will be ok. Don't forget to fit the throttle stop through the footbox floor so you don't put undue strain on the throttle body when you stamp hard on the loud pedal...bet you can't wait! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParsleyTheLion Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 Chris, If you haven't bent it yet.....yes, you need to shorten the inner cable by several inches. You haven't got the wrong cable - CC just don't seem to want to supply an appropriate length one. I turned a small steel ferrule, 10mm long, that would fit snugly on the cable, with a tapered end. Cross drill and tap for 2 grub screws (make 2 whilst you’re at it, for future repairs). Cut the existing nipple off, braze the tip of the cable a tiny bit, just to stop it fraying. You can now fit the ferrule, and adjust the cable to the perfect length, without bending anything, and still have the adjuster on the throttle body end set at its mid-point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CB Posted October 30, 2011 Author Share Posted October 30, 2011 Thanks all. Some choices to make - brute force or cable customisation (but I suspect I am limited there by lack of equipment to make a new ferule). It's a shame that CC can't provide parts that fit. Somehow fitting the diff seems easier. At least I knew that was going to involve the hammer.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grubbster Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 I'd just cut it and fit a screw on nipple, cheap and effective. It's all I've used for ages and I've never had a problem. I keep a length of inner cable and spare nipples in my tool box now instead of a complete replacement cable. If you BM your address I'll send you a screw on nipple! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CB Posted October 31, 2011 Author Share Posted October 31, 2011 Grubbster - YHBM. Many thanks. (it never fails to amaze me how willing people are to help here) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 Take one electrical "chocolate block" connector of suitable size - cut one module off, remove outer plastic . . . voila - one twin screw cable ferrule. Although I'm still using the original cable. Bri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grubbster Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 Chris - will be posted on the way home tonight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CliffC Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 Steve Does Caroline know your posting with your nipples out [: or have I read that wrong.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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