alan7 Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 1.8 VHPD, Powervamp PVR 25 Battery + FIA Battery Switch. Originally had a problem with the ignition light staying on & assumed it was the alternator. So alternator changed seemed OK. Car has been in the garage for a month on trickle charge (Odysee) with the FIA Switch off. Slow to turn over but stated 3rd time. A mile up the road I noticed the ignition light glowing - hard to spot in the bright sunshine, so drove home, switched off, checked connections & alternator belt, all seemed OK. Switched on, battery not turning the engine over, just enough to get the selonoid "click" Battery voltage = 12.4 or 3.7 when trying to turn the engine over. Where do I start looking/testing? How do you get the dead flies off your teeth....... 😬 R5AAH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 Battery is flat ! How old is it ? If the ignition light is on when engine running, sounds like alternator not charging it. If you can start it again (jump leads ?), measure voltage across battery when engine running. Should be above 12v if alternator working. Understand there were problems with FIA cut-off switch in the past ? Remove one wire off battery and connect a meter in series in the circuit between the terminal of the removed lead and the battery terminal. Set to Amps ... don't crank the engine !!! With the ignition off, what sort of current drain in this circuit ? This will tell you if anything is draining the battery when all off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuart McGill Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 I would have said it was a dodgy lead until you said the battery was reading 3.7 when turning over in which case it sounds like a battery problem. Best to wait for a more technical/ educated response though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Pikey Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 I had a faulty Powervamp PVR25 battery too. The guy there was a nightmare to get hold of but when I eventually did he tried telling me that it was ok and it was not until I explained that I had cycled it and it was only giving about half it's said capacity did he agree to change it. The next one was perfect and it made a world of difference to how my BEC ran. They normally go to Stoneleigh so maybe you could pop along for a chat with you faulty battery under your arm Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan7 Posted April 8, 2010 Author Share Posted April 8, 2010 Battery is 4 years old Alternator definately not charging - no increase in voltage with engine running and 8.9V across ignition light. > 0.5 amp drainage on the battery with FIA switch on, reduces to 0.0 amps with FIA switch off. How do you get the dead flies off your teeth....... 😬 R5AAH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan7 Posted April 8, 2010 Author Share Posted April 8, 2010 Jason, thanks for that but as Powervamp are only about 40 miles from me it would be quicker & easier to go & see them. Besides I can't wait until the beginning of May. Are the batteries date stamped? How do you get the dead flies off your teeth....... 😬 R5AAH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Rich Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 hi you commented that "> 0.5 amp drainage on the battery with FIA switch on, reduces to 0.0 amps with FIA switch off." Assuming it is wired OK which I guess it was as the problem I think you said has just appeared. I would suspect the alternator. If you disconnect the alternator then switch the FIA switch on but the ignition off then if current demand drops ( just a few mA if you have an imobiliser) then it is probably the alternator or the wiring to it . Only other possibility is the dump resistor on the FIA switch staying connected to the battery--this would run it down. I guess checking if it is warm would give a clue. this wopuld be an FIA switch fault I would sort the charging circuit first as running battery below 1.7V/cell (10.2V for battery ) off load then permenant damage to the battery can result though it does required prolonged exposure to the problem generally the result is that the battery life is reduced hope this helps best of luck Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oakhill Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 Had the same problem, like you thought it was the alternator I put a new battery on now starts first time and no ignition light. Good luck *wavey* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 Half an amp drain with ignition off .... No wonder battery is flat ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan7 Posted April 9, 2010 Author Share Posted April 9, 2010 Repairs Part 1 Battery off, alternator off quick trip to friendly autoelectrician Battery tested = Alternator tested = diode dead = not charging alternator repaired & tested OK Alternator fitted, battery fitted Couldn't even get a click out of the starter solenoid Turned FIA switch on Started 1st time 😬 no ignition light 😬 Switch off, try again = nothing repeat several times using different incantations sweet FA ☹️ Just happen to have a spare FIA switch in the back of the garage - don't ask why. New FIA switch fitted Started 1st time 😬 no ignition light 😬 Started 2nd time 😬 no ignition light 😬 Started 3rd time 😬 no ignition light 😬 Currently making sacrifice to Ohms Law with amber falling over liquid PS SM25T should have typed 0.5 MILLI amps How do you get the dead flies off your teeth....... 😬 R5AAH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted April 11, 2010 Share Posted April 11, 2010 fecking useless fia cut out switches 😔 😔 here is my Duratec R .... C7 TOP Taffia AO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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