viperbl Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 Guys, I took timing cover off my duratec to fit a modified one, I am now scratching my head as to how to put crankshaft pulley back on ... I can find TDC, but without the locking tool I can't keep it in place, once I start to torque up the pulley it shifts, if I lock that in place, the crank shifts ... I am fighting a lost cause here without both locking tools?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamQ Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 In my case we locked the pulley in place with a bolt (M6 I think) through the hole in the pulley into the threaded hole in the timing chain cover and locked the crankshaft in place with a suitable piece of sharpened steel plate in one of the flywheel teeth and held in place using one of the bell-housing-to-block holes. We did it this way on the assumption that the special crankshaft TDC locator is just that, i.e. a locator, rather than something designed to lock the crankshaft in place while the pulley bolt is tightened. I hope that might help (and make sense!). Cheers, Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viperbl Posted May 29, 2009 Author Share Posted May 29, 2009 Thanks Adam, It does make sense and I was thinking this morning this was the only real way without the tool, of course I have gone and put the engine in situ now!! oh well, out she comes again :) cheers mate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamQ Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 I don't know for certain, but can you not get sufficient access to the flywheel by removing the starter motor? Or stick it in gear and get somebody to stand on the brake pedal (Ican't see any problems with that approach, but it doesn't mean they don't exist ...). I suppose it might not give sufficient precision. You sound pretty philosophical about taking the engine out again, so maybe that is best. Hope you get it sorted out soon. Oh, for a keyway in the crank! Cheers, Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viperbl Posted May 29, 2009 Author Share Posted May 29, 2009 Adam, Was just down speaking to ruffseven, he suggest the starter motor as well :) I have a small crow bar which should give sufficent lock with a good friend holding tight ... I had tried the foot on the brake, and while it has prooved sucessfull on the k series it still allows for movement, and even a few mm is too much for this setup ... thanks for your ideas :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k80rum Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 You'll find a (clean ) file is just the right size for locking the cams too Rich, which might be handy. Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project Edited by - k80rum on 29 May 2009 17:17:48 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viperbl Posted June 15, 2009 Author Share Posted June 15, 2009 Timing is off, not by much but enough! Can anyone confirm if this is the set needed for the duratec (2.3)? Link here Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamQ Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 I've found this here, but the 2.3 is the only variant not mentioned. However, since the same tool by other manufacturers usually seem to be stated as suitable for 'all 16 valve Duratec engines' the implication is that there's no difference. Assuming that is the case, you might save a few pounds by going for an alternative - see the first paragraph here - the Draper tool seems to be about a fiver and the cheaper version of the Sealey one is only a few pounds more ISTR. Cheers, Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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