Tim Smith Posted April 12, 2009 Share Posted April 12, 2009 My K series engined car won't start after I got it out of the garage for the first time in 2 weeks and washed it. It's not the usual starter motor gremlins as the fuel pump isn't working when the ignition comes on. There's not solonoid thunk, only a faint click (relay?) when I press the button. Given that it's these 2 things any ideas? Immobiliser? I have a Toad system but it all appears to be working as normal but I assume that the fuel and starter will be the two things it affects? Anyone any bright ideas? Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted April 12, 2009 Share Posted April 12, 2009 Inertia switch, near the ecu? Only dead fish go with the flow....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Smith Posted April 12, 2009 Author Share Posted April 12, 2009 I thought that too, tried it, it's not that. Any idea if the box with relays in it next to the ecu is prone to failures? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted April 12, 2009 Share Posted April 12, 2009 Dodgy battery? What happens if you turn on the lights? Could also be a dodgy battery connection or, if you've got one fitted, master switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willie. Posted April 12, 2009 Share Posted April 12, 2009 ECU fuse. If its 20amp, replace it with a 30. Can't remember which one it is, but it'll be the last one you'll remove, so remove it first. Willie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Smith Posted April 12, 2009 Author Share Posted April 12, 2009 Lights work, battery has 12.5 volts but I've put it on charge over night just to be sure. Master switch works on all electrics doesn't it? Don't think it's that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Smith Posted April 12, 2009 Author Share Posted April 12, 2009 Tried the ECU fuse, swapped it for another 20amp one even though no sign of damage. Keep the ideas coming, I'm sure it can't be too difficult to fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Laddie Posted April 12, 2009 Share Posted April 12, 2009 Last time I had a similar problem the problem was hundreds of error messages within the ECU. Solved by Auto electrician using his analyser to clear the error messages. (Gives me a reason to buy one!!!) What caused the error messages....I don't know, but I had run a hot engine for about 10 minutes...thermostat failure, followed by a cold engine for about 3 hours....no thermostat! Enjoy, Mike (aka VII SVN) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Smith Posted April 12, 2009 Author Share Posted April 12, 2009 Isn't there some way you can reset the ECU? Turn on ignition and put throttle to the floor 5 times or am I talking rubbish? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted April 12, 2009 Share Posted April 12, 2009 How did you wash it? Not with a jetwash I hope...? FWIW, the Rover immob doesn't stop the starter from running - or the fuel-pump AFAIK - leaving you to churn away until your battery dies - so I'd *guess* that your immob doesn't do any different. My money (having been there in many guises) is that you've sodded an earth. Let's check the starter, shall we? Identify the solenoid wire, make sure the car is out of gear. Go check again. And again if you're nose-first into a garage - or have your beemer in front of you (or your Focus in my case - but I digress...). Fine a good, solid wire and touch the battery positive to the solenoid contact (might be easiest with a helper). Expect a spark - 'quite safe', but exciting. If that kicks the starter at all, your earthing problem is probably with the relays, MFRU or whatever. If nothing happens at all, let us know! 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 Alcester Racing 7s Ecosse™ 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted April 12, 2009 Share Posted April 12, 2009 If you get a *really* big spark, yank the wire that is now welded to your car away at the *battery* end and try and find the real solenoid contact on the starter... 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 Alcester Racing 7s Ecosse™ 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Smith Posted April 12, 2009 Author Share Posted April 12, 2009 No jetwashing! I'm daft but not that daft! I'll try the battery to solenoid thing tomorrow, it's too late to go back in the garage tonight. Would a dodgy earth stop the fuel pump working at the same time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willie. Posted April 12, 2009 Share Posted April 12, 2009 Tim, Bummer, was sure I had it with the ECU fuse. The ECU reset, as far as I know, only re-calibrats the IACV, TPS etc, so doubt it would work. Try if you like, ign on, 5 to floor, ign off. Willie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6speedmanual Posted April 12, 2009 Share Posted April 12, 2009 Tim A good hard thump with the hand may get the MFRU to work if some of the relays in it have stuck through lack of use. Worth a try. No guarantee! Peter BRAWNGP green SUPERLIGHT *tongue*There's no such thing as too much IQ per Pound 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Smith Posted April 13, 2009 Author Share Posted April 13, 2009 I'll try the thump to the MFRU later, a friend and I are going to have a go at it later. We'll also be giving Myles' batter straight to the solenoid idea. Hopefully we can narrow it down to either the MFRU or a problem with the immobiliser. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Smith Posted April 13, 2009 Author Share Posted April 13, 2009 Thanks to a bodge that Mav showed to Simon who then showed it to me we appear to have fixed it. However I still don't understand what we've done only that it works: Basically we opened up the loom coming from the ECU/MFRU and found a brown wire to pink wire spade connector. We then split the spade connector and connected the brown wire direct to the +ve side of the battery, leaving the pink wire disconnected. So what exactly have I done? Is this a bodge for the long term and what does it tell me about the cause of the problem? Have I simply bypassed the MFRU and need to buy a new one? Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnty Lyons Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 You haven't bypassed MFRU but you have bypassed feed to ECU from car loom That spade connector is prone to being problematic Cut off terminals and recrimp new ones Had to do it on a few now jj N.I. L7C AR 🙆🏻 Membership No.3927. 240BHP 1900cc K Series 40th Anniversary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Smith Posted April 13, 2009 Author Share Posted April 13, 2009 Thanks Johnty, I'll try that tomorrow night and see if that's a more permanant fix. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Smith Posted April 14, 2009 Author Share Posted April 14, 2009 OK, I've re-crimped/replaced the spade connectors and that hasn't fixed it. Where does the pink wire come from? Any new ideas about what the problem might be? Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnty Lyons Posted April 14, 2009 Share Posted April 14, 2009 Fuse 14 which gets its suppy from Battery brown also feeding 11 and 12 jj N.I. L7C AR 🙆🏻 Membership No.3927. 240BHP 1900cc K Series 40th Anniversary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Smith Posted April 14, 2009 Author Share Posted April 14, 2009 Johnty, Pink wire comes from fuse 14? I'm assuming that fuse 14 is the 20A one for the ECU? I've already swapped that to no avail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnty Lyons Posted April 14, 2009 Share Posted April 14, 2009 yep Fuse 14 is ECU fuse input is cross linked to input of 11 and 12 fed direct from battery One of two brown wires on battery. If you managed to get car to run by connecting Brown that is connected to Pink/[Purple actually] at spade connector Then fault can only be either at fuse box or battery. I suggest you replace 20amp in 14 with a 30 amp new fuse and also check Battery + terminal for dis caused by corrosion. jj N.I. L7C AR 🙆🏻 Membership No.3927. 240BHP 1900cc K Series 40th Anniversary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALEVS7 Posted April 15, 2009 Share Posted April 15, 2009 if not checked, thick +ve terminal at starter motor end , I had a problem with mine, had driven a few times in the winter,so crud and salt! and terminal was only a fraction loose, so undone cleaned and re-tightened and the car has been ok starting since! Al Evs. PurpleGtiEater....here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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