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CSR260 Aeroscreen

paul etty

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Don't know if CSRs have them as standard, but if you get the captive nut retaining channels (CC or RiF) then it's a doddle. For the heated screen, the wire connectors *do* fit through the grommets, but it's tight... I think a lot of people cut them and use smaller connectors/lengthen the wires at the same time.


If you don't have the captive nut retaining channels, then you'll need to remove the knee trim panels, and use a socket and allen key in tandem to undo the screen mount bolts, and the whole thing lifts off. Aeroscreen just uses the two forward bolts. Shimples.





Bugsy: '82 2cv6 (Back on the road!!! 😬)

Talloulah: '08 1.6K Classic (Grubby )

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RIF & CC aero's have the mirror sets (2 side & centre) mounted on them so they are a very quick bolt on/off as john suggests. Usual problem is the heated screen wiring and getting it through the little scuttle hole.


edited, just note you only want the aero for trackdays not road use


Edited by - Nick Chan on 10 Apr 2009 12:25:43

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Hi Paul


I changed to an aero screen took a morning.

probally best if you have an assistant as removing the glass screen with one hand while removing bolts and wiring can be tricky.


Its is a real transformation to drive.


Have a look at a previous post that i logged called CSR 260 Mods for some of the photos of before and after.




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It's a doddle if you use the captive nuts, I don't personally, I just leave the knee panels off and I can still change in 8-10 minutes with the help of SWMBO. Regarding heated screen wires, cut the CC connections off and replace with bullet connections but remember to slide grommet on to wire first but, before so doing, trim the inside edge from grommet off this makes it easier to fit and the screen holds it in place. Hope this is of some help.



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