Chaz23 Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Again I have gone to do a job which involves removing the seats - this time for new harnesses. However, again the bolts holding the seats in place have corroded so bad that the locking nut will not come off. They just spin right round. Has anyone got any solutions to stop this happening or is it a case of every time I need to remove the seats I will have to hack them off? And for the mean time is there any solutions on how to get the bolts off with out having to resort to a hacksaw? Any help much appreciated. ----- 1993 De-Dion 1700 X/FLOW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Often in France Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Replaced mine with stainless steel nuts n bolts and used a little copper grease, they now come off very easily. Bright red but far from embarrassed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Spray with PlusGas every day for a few days. If all else fails - apply a hot blue flame to crack the corrosion, or undo with an angle grinder ! Remedy - lots of CopaSlip on anything that doesn't need Loctite ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Fox Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 When you have got this apart, weld (or have welded) mild steel nuts to the seat brackets, then refit seats with bolts inserted from underneath the car. The exposed thread is then inside the car. Also means you don't have to reach down the back of the seat with a spanner.I would still use stainless bolts and copperslip as advised. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter T Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Stainless steel bolts really should not be used for anchoring your seat down. The shear factor of stainless in the event of a crash will allow your seat to depart from the floor. 8.8 should be used. Edited by - Peter T on 6 Apr 2009 17:29:16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Fox Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Point taken Peter, will change my stainless bolts fot HT tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter T Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Also they are not allowed in any type of FIA/MSA motorsport . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Fox Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Clearly these scrutineers havn't been doing their jobs properly. 😳 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JampJ Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 Surely the stainless bolts would pull through the aluminium before shearing, it's pretty thin! Cheers John JFDI (Just F*****g Do It) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalongbloke Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 Hi Chaz.. not sure if this will help with your prob.. but this is how I got mine (pre S type) off. Do the rear ones first.. A mole grip will pass between the seat base and back, allowing you to grip the head of the bolt that goes through the floor. Then just turn the nut underneath till it releases or the bolt snaps!! The fronts are easy using the same mole grip method. As someone said, stainless not a great idea for seat mounts. I replaced the bolts with high tensile allen heads... when they need to be undone, an allen key can be rammed in, which will wedge against the ally paneling when turned, thus locking it up.. use as short a bolt as poss, else they can get bent under the car, making them even more difficult to undo!! Good luck... hope this helps Long Live Crossflows!! Edited by - dalongbloke on 7 Apr 2009 12:26:21 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarchHare2008 Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 If you are relying on your seat bolts to keep you in the car then you have a problem! As long as they stop it rattling around they will be fine. The harness is what keeps you in the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaz23 Posted April 10, 2009 Author Share Posted April 10, 2009 Many thanks for the responses. I have used PlusGas and Mole Grips on 6 of the bolts (will do the other 2 tomorrow) unfortunately 1 of the nuts will not budge so I think it might have to be a hacksaw to remove it - I would have gone for the angle grinder option but as I don't have electricity in my garage I have to resort to manual labour. ----- 1993 De-Dion 1700 X/FLOW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul abrahams Posted April 10, 2009 Share Posted April 10, 2009 Chaz did the headlights work out ok Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaz23 Posted April 10, 2009 Author Share Posted April 10, 2009 Paul, Sorry, I thought I e-mailed you back - been really busy with Wightblat and being back at work. They look great and seem brighter than what I had (not tested in night mode yet). Removing the old ones was a pain in the 🙆🏻, fitting the new ones went reasonable well then dropped it off for MOT and informed them that I had just replace the lights and they were well out so they sorted the alignment out. Once I have sorted out the seats/seatbelts then I can get back on the road. 1993 De-Dion 1700 X/FLOW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul abrahams Posted April 10, 2009 Share Posted April 10, 2009 Glad they worked out for you Chaz, good luck with the seats Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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