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Engine gearbox removal BDR.


Chris B.

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I need to remove engine and box to replace clutch and overhaul box,i have a couple of questions i hope can be answered ?

1. I cant find a drain plug for gear box.

2. Do i need to remove oil cooler sandwich plate. I think if i remove L/H engine mount completely engine will swing to the left and then out ?

3. Do i need to remove steering column.

4.Any tips ?

Thanks guys

Regards

Chris.

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Chris, a BDR has a Kent block and i guess you have a DD chassis.

1 : No if the std 5 speed Caterham box, put a tin under the g.box tail when the propshaft comes out and let it drain.

2 : No, but remove both engine mounts and alternator

3 : NO

4 : have a cup of tea from time to time

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Chris,

 

Don't remove the gearbox with the engine. I always remove both engine mounting brackets. You don't say if you have a dry or wet sump. If dry then remove the steering coloumn. Mark the spline with a dab paint to ensure it goes back on the same spline. I remove the carbs (well used to, but have modified things now so I don't have to).

The only dsifficult thing is removing the mainifold (assuming you have 4 bolt flanges, the 3 ara a bit easier).

 

It's a fiddle getting the crank pully past the front X brace but a bit of wiggling and tilting does it.

 

Good luck, email me if you need any further advise.

 

Have you got a 1st motion shaft to align the clutch centre plate?

 

Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here

You and your seven toThe French Blatting Company Limited

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Chris, It's a lot easier on it's own. Also you don't have the problem with gear oil over the floor.

 

I raise the engine on the hoist and raise the bell housing on a jack at the same time. You need a fair bit of angle to clear the front pulley past the front cross member and this is made more difficult with the box bolted on. I only left the box on once, never again.

 

If you want to get the box out just remove the gear lever and undo the two mounting bolts after the engine is out. Also, if you want to drain the oil down (only reason for this is to get the swarf out) then remove the top cover and rest the box upside down on a drain tray (washing up bowl to me)

 

I think there's a picture of the engine going in (or out) on my website. I'll have a look.

 

ed to add that if you look at Rebuild pt 2 and scroll down to 28th March there's some photo's that may help. Ther may be others elswhere on the site, but breakfast calls.

 

Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here

You and your seven toThe French Blatting Company Limited

 

Edited by - nverona on 1 Mar 2009 10:04:46

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Chris, just read thebit about putting the engine in:

 

Finished the day by slipping the engine in. Yeah right! I had tried putting the gearbox on the engine twice when both were on the floor. So perfectly lined up were the centre plates that the box just fell on. Would the bloody thing go on when getting it in the car. I pushed and pulled shouted and swore. I couldn't get the angle right. I had the car too straight so I couldn't get a sharp angle which is needed to get the crank pulley behind the front chassis cross brace. So in the middle of getting the engine in I'm letting the back of the car down and moving the front axle stands to lower the front as well. Eventually it just goes "plop" and slides in. I get the front engine mounts on and call it a day. I'm exhausted!

 

So get the front up quite high. I usually put the axle stands on the chassis rail in front of the footwells (using wooden blocks to protect chassis and sideskins)

 

Right, breakfast (not again - the first)

 

Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here

You and your seven toThe French Blatting Company Limited

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Load leveler *thumbup*

 

I've just taken out engine & gearbox on my own (xflow on an LA), Now, putting it back in was really difficult; couldn't get the mounting bolt into the bottom of the gearbox, had to take out and realign the engine/gbox 3 times. Next time I'm going to split for the way back in so I can get the g'box mounted without the hastle.

 

Use a turkey baster to remove gear box oil through the top plate. Takes minutes, saves mopping up. *thumbup*

 

Alex McDonald

Loud, louder, loudest...

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Reading another thread reminded me to tell you to remove the alternator.

 

Also, you don't have to remove the carbs as long as you've got tools that allow you to remove the engine bracket and bell housing bolts with them in-situ.

 

However, if you do remove the carbs see if you can replace the 2 cheese headed screws that hold the throttle cable bracket with hex headed. Makes it much easier to remove/refit.

 

Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here

You and your seven toThe French Blatting Company Limited

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Alex, i always work alone, i even manage to squeeze a BDR with T5 g.box into a LA chassis, took it back out since there was not enough room between box and chassis.

So far i did manage to do every job alone on a LA or DD with a max height of axle stands.

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Elie, you and I ought to start a one man's guide to maintaining a 7 in a garage 3 foot wider than the car with only axle stands, a hammer and a screwdriver for tools *wavey*

 

Every job I do takes 5 times as long as it should; more space, more tools and more friends who'd like to help would be nice 😬

 

Or a son. Had my youngest daughter (18) out in the garage on Sunday. She moaned for all of the five minutes she was out there using one hand to push the engine sideways while I bolted up from underneath. I keep reminding her who pays the bills *nono* but she's mechanically hopeless. Just like her big sister and SWMBO. Best it's my domain *thumbup*

 

Alex McDonald

Loud, louder, loudest...

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Gosh how did I miss this thread *smile*

 

Have little to add other than its a lot easier with the box left in place. IF you have an ignition dizzy wheel on the crank pulley you will need to remove it. Do not do as I have done and refit it back to front 😳 Before you start set up the engine so that No1 is at TDC on the compression stroke and note where the mising tooth is located

 

Have fun still I not sure if you have already done it 🤔

 


'Can you hear me running' ......... OH YES and its music to my ears 😬 😬 😬

1988 200 bhp, 146 ft lbs, 1700cc Cosworth BD? engineered by Roger King, on Weber's with Brooklands and Clamshell wings, Freestyle Motorsport suspension.

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