Xflow dry sump oil change

[Colin Cooper]

Hi Guys,

Without disconnectiong the bottom tank hose, and getting oil everywhere, how do you change the oil? The drain plug & filter only drain a tiny part, and I can't see any obvious way to do it.

Col

 

C.J.Cooper

[Graham Perry]

Colin, My tank has a drain, are you sure yours hasn't ? If not you need to remove the hose. I would suggest removeng it at the tank end and not the pump as the pump hoses are tricky to get to.

[cskip]

The way I do mine is to disconnect the top hose to the tank (return from the pump). Start the engine and run the oil from the hose into a vessel of some kind. Once a fair bit has been emptied start filling up the tank with fresh oil, once the new oil is pumped through into the vessel. Stop the engine and fill the tank (if not already done).

 

This method saves a lot of hassle, but probably not the most cost effective! But be very careful to keep oil in the tank, otherwise it could be an expensive oil change 😳

 

If you don't fancy the risk of the above, just disconnect the bottom hose.

 

Skip.

 

West Hants Luddite

See CSKIP here

[PAC]

What I normally do is:

 

disconnect the bottom tank hose, and get oil everywhere!!

 

Actually, a washing-up bowl or paint tray will slide underneath, and after half a page of tragectory calculations, it can be done without spilling a drop.

My dry sump does retain quite a bit of dirty oil -after it stops draining from the fitting, so I sometimes pull the whole thing out and clean it.

I suppose I could flush some cheap oil through it first instead.

Paul

[Colin Cooper]

Thanks Lads,

Definately no drain Graham.

Looks like on with the marrigolds, and off with the hose!

Cheers,

Col

 

 

 

C.J.Cooper

[Graham Perry]

Colin, If its the first time you have done this, be careful to check that you get oil pressure quickly as with a dry sump system their is a risk of an airlock. I always pour 1.5 litres of oil into the engine direct (and the rest into the tank) just before restarting to help guard against any damage being done in case this were to happen. When shes up and running, oil level should be just below the strainer plate inside the top of the tank.

[elie boone]

i suck the oil out with a reservoir connected to airpressure, there is no spill and i get the last drop out. Might be a bit of an expencive tool for changing oil once a year.

After the refill start the engine without plugs and best is to disconnect the + ign wire from the coil.

 

Matbe you can convert those brake bleeding devices that also suck the brake fluid out to a larger reservoir so that it can hold enough for the reservoir to empty.

 

Edited by - elie boone on 31 Dec 2007 10:18:32

[don_g]

I use a manual pump system that ensures all the oil is removed from the tank. I'm sure your local motor factor wil have one - really clean and easy to use. IIRC I drilled a small (10mm) hole in the lower tank baffle plate to allow the tube from this pump system to reach the very bottom of the tank. Still some mess when the other unions are undone, though.

[Colin Cooper]

Thanks again lads,

In the end this is really quite easy. I cut an old 5 gallon tank lengthways, leaving the spout. it just slides under, & once the lower union is undone catches all the oil - no mess at all.

Cheers,

Col

 

C.J.Cooper

[JACK FLASH]

Colin,

 

Glad you found out that the straightforward way is often the easiest way. I also disconnect the bottom hose and the oil flows easily in a reservoir. Since I only change oil once a year (approximately 5.000 km = 3.100 miles) I always take out the tank and clean it thoroughly.

 

Elie' s advice to start the engine without the spark plugs to pump the oil untill you get enough oil pressure makes certainly sense. It is always safe the have an engine on oil pressure before you really fire it up.

 

Jack Flash

[Unclefester]

I've realised that the best thing to do is simply don't 'change' the oil at all!

 

I'm putting a drysump system into my SV K1800, but I'm also installing a Frantz bypass oil filter.

 

Once this is fitted, if a top quality synthetic such as mobil 1 is used and both fullflow and bypass filter elements changed at the recommended intervals (5000 miles for the bypass, 10,000 for the fullflow) all will be better than well as the oil will be as clean as when it was poured in...ie MUCH cleaner than it is even a week after a normal oil change has been done.

 

I know a few people on BC have fitted them recently, I've got them on our Subaru, a race Davrian, and our Elise S1 111S.

 

Saves a lot of trouble, cost, and engine wear.

 

It's also ideal for classic and other cars which don't do much mileage, or cars which do a lot of short journeys, as it removes water from the oil, so preventing acid buildup due to sulphur compounds from blowby gases mixing with the water from condensation in the oil.

 

Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds..ooooh hooo hooo!!...

😬 😬Abbey Road Time-Machine

 

Edited by - Unclefester on 6 Jan 2008 23:01:17