Nick Green Posted May 22, 2007 Share Posted May 22, 2007 Is Araldite resistant to petrol ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Wong1697456877 Posted May 22, 2007 Share Posted May 22, 2007 Yes according to http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/51922.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Green Posted May 22, 2007 Author Share Posted May 22, 2007 marvellous Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclefester Posted May 22, 2007 Share Posted May 22, 2007 Well, I'd be interested to see how this works out. I had a leak from a seam of an alloy fuel tank on a Grinnall Scorpion, since sold. I dropped the tank, cleaned it all up with alchohol after thoroughly emptying and drying with compressed air. I roughened the surfaces to be joined. I then made a right-angled strip of aluminium to cover the porous weld between side and bottom of the tank (only a small leak from a small area) before putting a good coat of Araldite on both tank and patch, and clamped it in position for curing. After curing I put some petrol in it and tested it. It leaked! I did this several times before giving up. I've also tried Araldite as a temporary bung over a porous gearbox/bellhousing wall, and there after a single race, it had gone all soft and was as much use as chewing gum. Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds..ooooh hooo hooo!!... 😬 😬Abbey Road Time-Machine *eek* Edited by - Unclefester on 22 May 2007 15:25:01 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Green Posted May 22, 2007 Author Share Posted May 22, 2007 Uncle Fester, I too have used Araldite to cover some tiny holes high up on a bell tank housing wall (external). 7 years later and all is well. My latest one is on the joint of a filler neck breather pipe... Put some on to seal a crack as I was bit desperate, what with having a track day the next day... So far so good, but I'll keep a close eye on things... The worst that should happen is that the smell of petrol on hard left handers with a full-ish tank will return... Or the glue gets into the petrol and bad things happen. Perhaps I should get a new filler neck after all. Nick Edited by - Nick Green on 22 May 2007 15:53:25 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclefester Posted May 22, 2007 Share Posted May 22, 2007 My gearbox repair was on the inside of the bellhousing and the araldite was getting hot oil on its gearbox side..... The petrol tank repair was at the bottom of the tank, so again, had liquid petrol in contact with the repair, not just vapour. I also wonder whether the type of araldite makes any difference? Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds..ooooh hooo hooo!!... 😬 😬Abbey Road Time-Machine *eek* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Green Posted May 22, 2007 Author Share Posted May 22, 2007 I was wondering if your repairs featured continuous contact. The breather repair does get liquid petrol touching it, but not constantly. Occasional sloshing. The data sheet on Alex's link does say a shelf life of three years. Mine is older than that, so we'll see. ISTR mine is the "rapid" variety... Is that what you mean ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S47zz Posted May 22, 2007 Share Posted May 22, 2007 Original araldite certainly is I fixed a Punctured petrol tank and It's still Petrol proof after about 12years - 'Rapid' supposed to be but I wouldn't want to depend on it. I used it inside a tank to secure a swirl pot which loosened off within a year, the Rapid araldite itself was soft Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclefester Posted May 22, 2007 Share Posted May 22, 2007 Mine was very likely the Rapid type. Wish I'd realised there might be a difference! 😔 Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds..ooooh hooo hooo!!... 😬 😬Abbey Road Time-Machine *eek* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 I had amy rear ARB puncture my petrol tank and I fixed it on the side of the track with "chemical Metal" , I cant recall who makes it but its in a yellow box / and has 2 yellow coloured (branded) tubes that you mix into a grey paste . Its been fine for 6 years here is C7 TOP Taffia Area Rep Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackb_ms Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 Try JB weld It's rather good and it could be what Dave Jackson is talkin about. Jack Emily, The Very Yellow 21 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Green Posted May 23, 2007 Author Share Posted May 23, 2007 I checked my latest araldited joint last night, and the glue is hard, not soft. Also checked the packaging for the glue, and "Rapid" does not appear anywhere on it. Possibly why I've had no problems to date. Checked the 7 year old blob of araldite on the outside of the bell housing. Still very much there and it is sealing. I'll see how things go, rather than fork out for a new filler neck immediately. Thanks for the info/experiences everyone. I'll keep an eye out for JB Weld type stuff too. Can't have too many of these things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Cook Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 Some years ago I contacted the technical department of Araldite “Ceiber Gigey” or something like that with this question. They told me that standard DIY Araldite is not suitable for long term contact with petrol or brake fluid, they do however have a variety which is designed specifically for it which is available from various distributors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Mill Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 I find the quick setting epoxy adhesives to be no where near as good as the old 24hr stuff. The odd thing is that when heated to about 100C the 24hr stuff will go of hard faster than the 5 minute stuff that seems to remain slightly rubbery for ages. 5 minute epoxy does not even seem to be fully waterproof! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 the stuff I used was called "Chemical metal" - I just cant remember the brand. here is C7 TOP Taffia Area Rep Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S47zz Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 JB weld is also petrol proof - when I Lived in USA I always used it. Never seen it for sale in UK though 🤔 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Mill Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 JB weld seems popular amongst aeromodellers so I reckon some UK model shops will have it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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