Sootysevener Posted November 7, 2006 Share Posted November 7, 2006 Anyone got any specifications for a pit. I got builders in currently replacing the garage roof and putting a new floor in so this seems the best time to put in a pit. I'm aware that we need some form of sump to catch spills and it will be tanked to keep it water proof but sizes etc and any quirks which others have come across would be useful to know David 1989 1700XF SS clams with carbon webshots here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxy Smith Posted November 7, 2006 Share Posted November 7, 2006 I know you can buy rigid fibreglass liners which solve a lot of problems all at once not least the tanking. You might need planning consent, certainly do here and my local planning office were very anti inspection pits so in the end I didn't bother. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sootysevener Posted November 7, 2006 Author Share Posted November 7, 2006 Thanks Foxy Whole project has been subject to PP anyway so no probs there and i await a quote from Mech mate who make preform GRP pits David 1989 1700XF SS clams with carbon webshots here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Crudders Posted November 7, 2006 Area Representative Share Posted November 7, 2006 Mechanical ventilation is advisable, to prevent petrol vapour accumulating in the depths and going up when you drop a spanner. Yowch I always fancied a pit myself but speaking to people who have them, they do have a number of drawbacks. You're probably better off raising the car really - spesh when it only weighs half a tonne. Crudders Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterg Posted November 7, 2006 Share Posted November 7, 2006 Raise the roof and put a two post lift in it instead Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Gregory Posted November 7, 2006 Share Posted November 7, 2006 Sooty: Tanking has already been mentioned, I used bitumen & plastic sheet & amazingly it worked! Size: mine is 37" wide, 96" long & 60" deep (floor to floor). It is covered by 9" x 3" planks. Don't forget to build in steps, I didn't, so have to use a step ladder. Mains power for lighting (strip lights)& power tools would be useful too. Never had any problems with petrol vapour. HTH, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted November 7, 2006 Share Posted November 7, 2006 2 poster everytime. I spent fortunes replacing most of our 4 posters for 2 posters in the late 60's Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here You and your seven toThe French Blatting Company Limited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted November 7, 2006 Share Posted November 7, 2006 I fitted a Mechmate pit in my new garage a couple of years ago and its fantastic. Although a lift would be nice it would have been too tall for my garage. The lift does have the advantage that you can work all around, say, a suspension or brake system without hopping up and down in and out of the pit. Keeps you fit though, so long as you don't fall in 😬 Don't underestimate the amount of work involved in fitting it. We used about 4 tons of concrete backfilling around the moulding and, if you go ahead, I can give you a few tips if you're interested. All in all, one of the best car related things I've done. Easy to use and clean which is just as well after a friend emptied his Honda Civic sump into it 😳 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomGaval Posted November 7, 2006 Share Posted November 7, 2006 I'm Curious, Where are the lifting points on the 7 if using a 2 post lift? and can you park another car under one on a two post lift like you can on a 4 poster? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Day Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 Lifting points?...anywhere on the chassis really; I've seen a pallet lifter used to good effect. Parking another car underneath?............why not, but make sure the top car doesn't leak onto the nice white leather interior underneath Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomGaval Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 My Seven leak? surely you jest. I was thinking of a 4 post lift, but it's not as convient to change tires, do brake work, etc. Jacking the car up on the lift is not Ideal IMHO. Any other suggestion other than adding a few more bays. the next door neighbor wanted to add a couple more garage bays, and ended up building a 6000 sq ft addition to the house. Edited by - TomGaval on 9 Nov 2006 00:25:50 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 Where are the lifting points on the 7 if using a 2 post lift? The front is best done under the engine mounts (on a k) - the rear can be done alongside (or underneath) the front a-frame mounts. 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 Alcester Racing 7s Equipe™ 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomGaval Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 Thanks Myles. That's what I wanted to know. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elie boone Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 Changing tyres on a 4 post bridge, u use tall axle stands and lower the bridge until the wheels are in the air. The lenght of the pit is most important so that you don't get trapped, my father has sush a " suicidepit" in his garage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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