Chris W Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 More good news: I mentioned that the Caterham 7 fraternity may have a big interest in this product so the guy at Shift-i (EclipTech) has emailed me back to say: -------------------------------------------------- Hi Chris, Certainly. The setting is the “Calibration Value”, page 4 of the attached “User Manual”. I should update the installation manual to be specific about this setting. There is also an “Advanced Settings Manual”, however its really to tweak settings which most people don’t concern themselves with. If you have enough interest, at least 5+ people, then let me know. We often assist clubs with group deals and combined shipping. Cheers, Tony -------------------------------------------------------------- Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 We often assist clubs with group deals and combined shipping I'm up for a bulk buy Chris 2 sets please here is C7 TOP South Wales AO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prs Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 Would also be interested in this Phil S7SVN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimB Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 I'd also be interested in this. Cheers, Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 Me too as a possible. Steve. Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 Myles, Did you get the <£70 price via a bulk buy or by simply buying one unit direct? Steve. Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frying Pan Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 Very interesting at this price See some pictures of the build here. 10000 miles completed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 Steve, Did you get the <£70 price via a bulk buy or by simply buying one unit direct That is the UK equivalent price when you convert Oz$ to GB£ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 Thanks Mav, Have had clarification now anyway 😬 Steve. Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinWoodham Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 Put me down for one as well - who's organising the BB? Chris, sorry, I did have you wrong - your original post seemed to be saying it's calibrated vs the tacho and is therefore inaccurate - which on checking the manual didn't appear right, so thats why I jumped in. [apologetic smiley] Anyway I've learnt that wasted spark (k series mems implementation) doubles the tacho signal. Never would have guessed that! Martin Roadsports B with upgradeitis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 I am in discussion with Ecliptech for a bulk-buy of the Shift-i shift lights. The price, based on current exchange rates with Oz, is indeed £60 per unit BUT there would be around £10 postage charges per unit plus customs clearance charges and customs will charge VAT on each unit. So I anticipate that the final end price will be around £80 - £85 landed. By taking advice from people who know more about importing than me, I will do everything I can to keep the charges to a minimum but I want to work with a worst-case scenario to eliminate "stragglers" I am prepared to administer and fund this shipment but Ecliptech need a confirmed order for 30+ units to meet this price. As I do not want to get stuck with shiftlights as gifts for everyone in my family at Xmas this year, how many people would be prepared to COMMIT DEFINITELY at around this price? I don't want "possibles", "probables" or "looks interesting", only people who will not later back out and will pay on-the-dot when asked. The batch would be the version with 7 LEDs which are coloured GGGGAAR (where G=green; A=amber & R=red). As you will have read earlier, I have confirmed that they will work with all 7 ignition variants (viz: wasted and normal spark versions). Fitting is a doddle (3 wires only - +12v, earth & tacho input). The instruction booklets (which can be downloaded) are very comprehensive and easy to follow. You can also fit these to your motorbike or tintop too if desired so you're not limited to one each! Let me know your reactions Chris Edited to say: I would also act as the technical support on these too rather than having to contact Oz directly. 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Edited by - Chris W on 10 Jul 2006 15:32:06 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 1 unit confirmed here is C7 TOP South Wales AO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_C Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 Chris, I assume you would be ordering the ones with the flat casing, not the round one? Cheers Tom FH54WLX - only the car supports ManU, honest! see here - UPDATED Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 That's correct Tom - flat casing - I forgot to mention that Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Birtwisle Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 Chris Good on the se7ens.net mailing list is/was already organising a bulk buy if you want to get in touch with him. The units will be £72 delivered. You can contact him at chris@g2.nu cheers Alex S713UMY 1.8K Viper Blue and Spandex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_C Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 Slight hijack, but only to save everyone money and Chris a bit of time.... Chris Good from 7s List is currently putting together an order for these, it was him that got the first set including the ones Myles has. He will be doing them for £72 a go including delivery to your door. If you want to join his buy instead email chris@g2.nu Cheers Tom FH54WLX - only the car supports ManU, honest! see here - UPDATED Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_C Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 Beaten to it by Alex. The shame.... Cheers Tom FH54WLX - only the car supports ManU, honest! see here - UPDATED Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 I am now aware of Chris Good's buy as he has emailed me directly. (The guy at Ecliptech made no mention of anyone else's buying a quantity in the UK). If Chris can get them for £72 inc VAT, carriage and customs charges paid then that's great. I'll step aside. Why didn't someone mention this earlier before I wasted so much time on emails to Oz? Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Birtwisle Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 Why didn't someone mention this earlier Would have done if I'd picked the thread up earlier... S713UMY 1.8K Viper Blue and Spandex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted July 10, 2006 Author Share Posted July 10, 2006 I was at work... Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted July 11, 2006 Share Posted July 11, 2006 Myles I am confused as to how Chris G is landing these, all charges paid inc delivery to the end-user, for £72 as the VAT alone is about £10-£12 plus carriage on top, plus customs clearance charges. (I assume these are being declared at customs? ) Is Chris G acting as the technical support too or is it a case of contacting the manufacturer directly if an individual has any technical issues? Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted July 11, 2006 Share Posted July 11, 2006 Guess he got a better discount 🤔 here is C7 TOP South Wales AO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted July 11, 2006 Author Share Posted July 11, 2006 Chris, Maybe he did achieve a better discount - and he has stated that this is not a profit-making exercise at those prices. I don't expect him to act as tech-support - or expect him to handle duff units (unless DOA). Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris G Posted July 11, 2006 Share Posted July 11, 2006 Just to clear up any confusion I organised the last bulk buy that Myles was part of. The prices I am quoting for this bulk buy are based on the costs incurred in that last bulk buy and fully account for shipping from australia, onward shipping to everyone over here and all customs,duty and vat charges. In the bulk buy there are two options, the "straight" style which is what most people seem to have gone for to date and the "curved" style which is designed to fit around a standard speedo/rev counter. Cost, all inclusive is 72 pounds. If you would like to part of the bulk buy then all you have to do at this stage is let me know "straight" or "curved" in an email to chris@g2.nu by the weekend. In terms of post sales support, should you need it you would deal with the manufacturer. Tony at EclipTech is so responsive and helpful that you really don't want anyone else sticking their oar in. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris G Posted July 11, 2006 Share Posted July 11, 2006 Oh, I had a bunch of responses to peoples queries from the manufacturer which might be of interest. All reproduced with permission from Ecliptech. =========================================== You don't need to match the revs against the tacho accurately. Some people run without a tacho and just use a Shift-I. Matching to the tacho makes sure that when you set your rpm points, the Shift-I knows what your trying to program. Chris W hit the nail on the head with this one. To be honest, you'll find most needle tachos to be rather inaccurate (particularly at the top end), and often lag the actual engine RPM on rapid acceleration. The accuracy of the actual RPM number is not particularly important. The most important thing is to have something that is consistently accurate. Mwoodham has a good point too. The tacho signal from the ECU is not always representative of the ignition pulse at a plug. It can be a multiple. Either way, wasted spark or not, it's supported. You can change the settings to 0.5, 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8 pulses per engine revolution. Setting 2 is most common (default), and sometimes 1 and 4. Chris W is right, in that most of these tachos operate by an average reading. It can be averaged to produce an analog voltage, pulse counted over a fixed period or also timed pulse of fixed count. These methods are relatively slow to react to changes, and therefore not as accurate. This is particularly true at lower RPMs. The Shift-I uses a sophisticated algorithm to read the RPM, together with an analog filter. The software measure "every single pulse", accurately measuring the time between both low to high and high to low transitions. It is pulse measuring, not pulse counting or pulse averaging. It will detect a noise spike, reject it and still measure the pulse as if the noise wasn't there! After the pulse passes the noise filter, it then goes into a small buffer which ranks and picks those most consistent. The result is a system that is very fast to respond to engines RPM, as it is measuring ignition events, not averaging to mask erroneous data. It was specifically designed to respond fast, but not from a noisy signal. I'm quite proud of it The noise rejection filter is user controlled. I don't like fully automatic systems, as it could be unpredictable and/or unreliable between various cars/bikes. So there are 7 sensitivity settings you can pick from. Most people leave it on the default, 6. But if you run direct from the low side of the coil, the optimum is usually 3 or 4. If you get flickering, then just reduce the sensitivity. Display should be rock stable. Visibility was the key to this design. It was designed with 7 lights, because it is the maximum you can comfortably recognize in your peripheral vision. You don't have to look at the display to tell how many lights are on. There are better things for your eyes to be looking at ;-) The automatic dimming function is probably more sophisticated than most would realize. You can change the brightness at any time and it will remember. In fact, it remembers what you set it to for the given ambient light, and adjusts it's internal map. For example, changing the brightness at night will not effect the brightness you set during the day. As far as your concerned, you might adjust it once or twice and then completely forget about the feature. You can change the RPM range it shows to anything you want, down to a resolution of 50 RPM. For example, lights start at 2,650 and flash at 6,150. Being digital set, you can make fine adjustments. Water proof, no. Water resistant, yes. I=92ve only ever had one = customer that had one filled with water, due to it being on its side with the bottom air vents exposed to a heavy downpour. 5 minutes with a hair dryer fixed that. They are very robust! They are also coated with a lacquer for protection against the elements. They should be mounted behind a windscreen to prevent rain being forced in at speed. BTW not that I recommend trying, but I have pictures of one running in a fishtank! The sensitivity setting is specifically to reject noise on the signal. If too much noise gets through the digital filter (flickering), then reduce it. This however is different to hunting around a point, where a light may flicker as you hover around a particular RPM. This is specifically addressed with the RPM Hysteresis. You'll need to venture into the Advanced Settings Manual to see the details. By now your probably thinking of that second cup of coffee before continuing to read hehe. This hysteresis setting means that once a light turns on, the engine RPM has to drop a certain amount before the light turns off. A shift indicator that flickers isn't something you can rely on, hence it was a feature designed in at the concept stage. In reality, its probably a feature you won't even notice unless you look for it. If interested, you can turn it off, or tweak how far the revs need to drop before each light will turn off. As for cost, please don't think its an 'economical model' because its cheap compared to others. I'm an electronics engineer, bit of a nutter when it comes to the technical specifics and love motorsports (from the drivers seat). I have low overheads and no intermediate distributor and then shop to add to the price tag. Oh... and it was initially targeted at bikes, but was definitely designed for both bikes and cars. I'm just not that good when it comes to marketing hehe... I'II get around to making a separate gallery and updating the manuals when I have enough pictures to make a separate car gallery (hint hint hehe...). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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