Chris Norman Posted June 13, 2006 Share Posted June 13, 2006 I have an immobiliser that I want to fit, Thatcham cat2 proximity fob type. Imobiliser will isolate two circuits, question is what to isolate? Seven has ignition via aero type switch (not key/barrel), FIA master switch and Q/R wheel. Also has starter button fitted. Which circuits should I isolate, fuel pump seems first choice, then possibly coil (low tension) or starter button. Thinking is a) fuel pump will stop engine from starting (well running for any amount of time) and b)isolating starter button will stop someone from messing when left in Sainsbury's car park useful as 7 is usally left in gear (under dash h/brake) Is this the best way to go or have I missed something? Advice gratefully received. Thanks Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LazerBrain Posted June 14, 2006 Share Posted June 14, 2006 Just an aside, but I don't think your insurance company will offer any discounts for a non-pro fit of an immobiliser. Having said that, I reckon fuel pump and starter button are good candidates. How about the ECU instead of the fuel pump - I think the fuel pump won't prime if the ECU is off. Chris W will probably be along shortly with useful ideas... cya at the SoM later? cheers, Darren. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Molloy Posted June 14, 2006 Share Posted June 14, 2006 Something to consider with aftermarket immobiliser fitments is reliability. It's not always a good idea to break circuits that you need while driving, e.g. fuel pump or ignition. Bit frightening if the immobiliser unit throws a wobbler while you are honking down the fast lane and you grind to a halt with no fuel or sparks! Similarly, it is vital that your connections to the vehicle wiring are sound. Solder all joints and use proper heatshrink. No scotch-loks or insulating tape!!! I would suggest that crank disable would be a good first choice. Mr Tea Leaf could turn the Ignition on, but pressing the big red button has no effect. That means bonnet off to bridge the starter relay. What sort of engine do you have? Does it have an Engine Management system? Is it possible that this already has provision for an immobiliser input? To be honest a Q/R steering wheel is a pretty effective immobiliser IMHO! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Norman Posted June 15, 2006 Author Share Posted June 15, 2006 Darren/Mike Thanks for the replies. Darren, sorry didn't make it to the SOM as I didn't leave work until gone 8pm ☹️ Your idea of disabling to ECU, which in turn will not power the fuel pump sounds good, not sure how easy that is. Mike, Seven is 1.4SS with MEMS ECU, originally built as a racer. As for the wiring, must have pulled out loads of tape/poor connections/scotch loks, replaced where necessary with soldered joints and lots of heat shrink, good job there is a Maplins just around the corner from the office. Cheers Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allen Payne Posted June 15, 2006 Share Posted June 15, 2006 I've just removed the old Vecta immobiliser from my 1400ss after it failed whilst driving down a dual-carridgeway stopping the car with no sparks/fuel. It was wired in to isolated the ECU & fuel pump feeds (which somehow also stopped the engine cranking) Edited by - Allen Payne on 15 Jun 2006 11:18:59 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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