Stainless Steel brake caliper link pipe - Seating

[Tazio]

One of my brake caliper link pipes on my AP calipers was recently damaged by an errant wheel weight, I have obtained a replacement, but as yet have not been able to stop it leaking from the caliper. Being stainless steel, it doesn't have the malleability of copper so does anyone have some idea how I can the end to seal and stop the leak, bearing in mind how difficult it is to get leverage on the offending fitting.

Cheers, Alan

[aerobod - near CYYC]

Hi Alan, it should be a standard flared end that will require the correct torque to seat into a tight seal. Typically this is around 10 to 20Nm, but should be checked with AP. It is best to use a crowfoot end with a torque wrench to seat it properly.

[Mavic82]

not much help Alan but best to use a brake pipe spanner rather than an open ended one if your not already. You can get a better purchase that way. I have one that’s probably the right size in case you don’t have one or are not using one.

[Wrightpayne]

Mavic,

Unfortunately, the brake union spanner clashes with the caliper so won't go on properly.

Ian

[Tazio]

I'll be getting a suitably sized sacrificial ring spanner and cutting a slot in it, as Ian says the brake union one clashes, and an open end just doesn't feel secure enough, then continue trying the loosen, backoff, then re tighten method.

Alan

[Wrightpayne]

Alan,

I wouldn't bother - I'm certain I got it tighter than the nm torque mentioned above with the the 11mm OE spanner, which was a very good fit on the fitting.

I'd like to have the caliper off and check the hole / drilling for damage/debris (off the car so not looking through dripping brake fluid!)

Also, to check the pipe for defects.

 

Finally, did you think of my suggestion of tightening the pipe into a steel fitting (like a straight connector) so you can torque further than into ally and seat/reform the flanged end?

Ian