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Misfire and high idling


graearea

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My poor little Kali has a bit of a cough low down in the rev range and the occasional backfire out of the ITBs. this is currently combined with a high idle which means a constant burble when the throttle is off which means it sounds a little bit like I'm pining for my teenage years...

I've swapped coils around (2 off, still misfires, swap the other 2, still misfires) and I've got some new plugs coming.

I've checked the throttle cable and it doesn't feel tight, you can hear the roller clack into closed position when pedal released. is there something I can check with OBD? it's running at about 1.5k revs.

any ideas before I ship it off to Rob?

J

 

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Do you know someone with the MBE 985 cable for connecting the diagnostic port to a laptop running Easimap?  That's the surest way way to examine what the various sensors are telling the ECU.

Is the misfire confined to a particular cylinder?  If it's #1 (the most common on a Duratec IME), check the coil-on-plug wiring where it enters the connector.   Fractures are quite common in that area.  Also check the connector terminals for arcing --  any black discoloration visible?  If so, pull off and replace the connector several times (20 or so) to clean the surfaces.

1500rpm is certainly a fast idle.  It should be around 900.

JV

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I don't have one I'm afraid. I don't know how to find out which cylinder it is either. I'll double check the coils.

I don't know anyone with an MBR 985. I've asked my local groups whatsapp group so we'll see if that helps.

otherwise I'll have to see if anyone has one that they can post out

cheers John

J

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To find out which cylinder is misfiring, you really need a digital pyrometer aimed at the primaries.  Failing that, you can (carefully and very briefly!) touch each primary in turn with a wet finger.

Normally, I could lend you my MBE985 (listed in the Equipment for Loan Register) but I'm abroad at the moment.  For info, there's another one in the Register.  Alternatively, you could buy one from SBD Motorsport, but they're not cheap.

JV

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ok. I'll go swap the plugs and see if there's still a misfire and dig my pyrometer out. it only really seems to stutter badly at low revs. makes me wonder if it is actually a misfire... I was fine keeping up with other R400s/R500s on monday :D

I've emailed Spuddy on the register. we'll see if they're active.

cheers again John.

J

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seriously? you've never watched neighbours? :D

in the end there were 2 tips missing. I've replaced them with NGK TR6AP-13 I think the old ones were the same.

I checked the bores and they looked ok. I compression tested at 160 150 130 125 from the back with broken tips on 1 and 4. don't know if that is good or bad.

a few people have suggested that it's down to too hot. is it possible I should be doing something about this?

obviously the car gets a hammering, I don't generally run for more than 20 mins on the track

do I need to fit iridium plugs?

still got to get to the bottom of the high-idle. that hasn't been fixed. (the misfire has)

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The plug colour looks good, John, nice and tan with no black bits, was the tip just melted as opposed to broken? If the piston crowns don't show any sign of pitting due to any localized melting, colder plugs may be the answer. The NGK BR7EFS plugs with a 0.9mm gap may work better and are quite cheap, they hold up well on my R400D for track use, sometimes for full 1 hour sessions in high 30C ambient temperatures.

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  • 2 weeks later...

right. I've swapped out the plugs to the BR7EFS and I've managed to get a cable of one of our kind members.

the throttle site is showing 1.8 when ignition turned on and 2.1 when running. I've recorded a log set of the car turning on and running up to 90degC

easymap.thumb.jpg.f2b79a4d5530c0609ce8a264655de734.jpg

do I just screw out the idle stop to reduce the idle? to me that seems to be the problem.

the throttle cable has a very small bit of slack meaning it's the idle stop on the roller barrel. max throttle is 15.1 which I think is correct.

TIA

J

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Hi J, I would see if you can unwind the throttle stop slightly, but ensure there is still throttle cable slack when the engine is warm. If the engine doesn't want to run smoothly at idle when warm, then a small rotation of the TPS or balance of the ITBs may be needed. Aim for the idle Throttle Site to be in the range of 0.0 to 0.4.

Your Lambda value when the engine is warm should be oscillating between lean and rich at a stable frequency with a status of "OK".

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