Tom_Arundel

Not tried a series 3 but SV prop will just go over the diff (in situ.) by enough to replace the gearbox seal. As a matter of interest, how many Caterhams DON`T have leaky gearbox seals? Is this an inadequate breather and or a prop nose issue ?

I was singing as loudly as I could whilst blatting the other day and I couldn`t hear a word of it.....probably a good thing 

As a matter if interest....when I was involved in dyno testing F1 engines using uj propshafts they had to be out of line or the needle rollers in the joints would hammer the same spot on the bearing and self destruct in a very short time.....prop shafts should be run out of line to avoid this......here endeth the lesson 

There was something in the air when I went to see them.....but it wasn`t hydrogen 

Get a new battery from Tayna !

Hydrogen....always reminds me of the cover of Led Zeppelin`s album  Electric cables and batteries everywhere is bad enough but hydrogen and the general public won`t mix in a good way!

Interesting! Makes me wonder what will happen when we all go to nice clean EVs and the refineries have to find somewhere to dispose of petrol and diesel etc. As we are dependent on refinery products for almost everything we use and much of it is `necessary` maybe EVs have a hidden problem

Ah! So young....so much to learn 

Yes it needs to be perspex not acrylic for ease of bending with hot air gun. Hinges ali. blocks....mirrors from local bike shop.....nylon turn catch at the bottom....mornings work in the shed

Mk 2 about to be made with forward extensions and more air gap

Made an aero screen at the same time........much better than std. screen and performance noticeably better

Crude but effective......just clips on

The TPS is driven by the throttle butterfly spindle so changes to the idle air setting/throttle stop affect the TPS readings. There are 2 basic settings on easymap   one is throttle position 0-15 and the other is voltage. 0.38v is about right (maybe a bit low) with a position setting just changing from 0-1. However.....the throttle stop/idle air may need adjusting for RPM and this will change the TPS setting which will need resetting and this will probably affect the RPM....YO!  There`s a lot of trial and error involved and the system is very sensitive to small changes I`m currently set at 0.4v and just on the edge of 0-1 position change which works for me!

Best to set it with a warm engine

Don`t overtighten the TPS screws.........It has been known to lock the throttle wide open !!!

!. Don`t touch the throttle pedal when starting engine

2. Check for air leaks on manifold (pipes/plugs)

3. Disconnect, leave for a bit and then reconnect  battery to reset ecu

3. Possible lambda sensor failure...disconnect sensor plug under footwell and try driving without it connected (hunting)

Try these in sequence to see if it improves....generally works for me!

When you say `hunting` do you mean the engine speed changes by itself or do you mean the car `kangaroos` (jerky) when you try to accelerate/decelerate? `Kangarooing` can be throttle pot setting error and is not uncommon. If you have Easy map you can reset it but it is very sensitive and needs to be in balance with the idle air setting.

I probably have one in the shed....or could make a new part if you are stuck....where are you?

Anyglass   Rugby....local glass works.  They cut them to a hardboard pattern I made but the old screen would do.

Indeed, much like Boris`s brain.

If you are stuck I may have a spare in the shed......otherwise.....

nowhere near as good. unfortunately, AO12 much better in all respects (except price) but not allowed anymore. NS2R is ok and quite progressive but less overall grip. I found AO21s `melted` on track after 3 quick laps but they are a wet tyre.

I got mine cut at the local glass works....about £20 each (not heated)....I got 3 made (2 spares) as they do get cracked fairly regularly by stones flying off cars going the other way, especially at this time of year. They are fairly easy to fit. 

There are 2 pin holes at 90degs.(vertical - horizontal) in the stub axle so you can go half a flat. 0.5mm is ok if you spin the wheel first. If it feels a bit `twitchy` go a half flat tighter.  Have you greased the bearings recently?

If its a Ford box I use a long series allen key with the short end shortened and a length of pipe. I turned a few pitches off the plug thread to minimise the fiddling and give a lead to get it back in. Its messy....wear goggles....make sure no one can hear you... good luck

Right diff.?     picture?

I know this will make some `cringe` but I put the front bolts in first and then lined up the top bolt hole ( it is about 3mm out of line) on a jack and drilled it through with a 1/2" drill and then slotted the bolt through. Previously the top bolt had to be bashed through with a hammer which preloaded the bushes and made it noisy 

Are they the same length as the originals or longer?      Are they a good fit?

I don`t know what the BMW plug is like but I put 2 spanner flats on my Sierra plug and use a spanner...easy.

I lashed mine to the `heel bar` cross tube, on the floor in front of the passenger seat, using large tywraps....no problems and just a snip to remove the whole unit