Garf

These mounts from David are still available to buy as i will not be having them. My mistake as it turns out the mirrors I previously bought from a Blatchat member are Racetech which uses a different mounting to the Spa type. BTTT

Hi David - I would like to buy these from you. Thanks, Neil.

My 1.4SS engine is currently apart having it's big end bearings replaced (again!) after a spirited handling event. It already has the foam removed and oil pick-up mods. I have decided it's time to add an Apollo oil/air separation tank but can't source from the usual places. If anyone has a full kit going "spare" then please blat mail me. Happy to collect if near Essex or will pay for a Hermes home collection to simplify things in current times. Fingers crossed .... Neil

Ian - 7" with the original reflectors and lenses from 1995 (with a quick polish inside). I should add that the non-LED was also a Phillip's Extreme 140% bulb ....so even more impressive! You can actually rotate the LED bulb in its plastic holder (which itself slots perfectly into the reflector housing) in case you need to adjust get the horizontal alignment (there are placement notches as you rotate but I didn't need to). Neil

John - no adjustment at all but that was why i put the tape on the sheet to check the alignment when fitting .... just "plug & play" Neil

Just for Jonathan (and of course others who are interested...) below are some amateur pics of the Dave Gemzoe LED's per John's post #4. It wasn't dark at the time nor a scientific test but more of an "alignment aid" process - however you can see how brighter they are and how well they cut-off on dipped beam (similar pattern to the original H4 bulbs) to avoid glare to on-coming vehicles. At night they are much more impressive Dipped beam: Main beam: Neil

My understanding is all k series have same dipstick length as all have same low sump. Mine is metal with yellow bottom with min/max hatch area but is apparently not the correct original one. However it has a notch on the metal where the max should be at 412mm from top edge and min is at 432mm. If you have an all metal one then lightly "crimp" yourself some notches. When I looked in the archives a while ago there were several comments about if the pgm ones were right or not .... Edit to add these measurements are for a wet sump!

That may well be the going rate now. For my Mini Cooper S with twin carbs I've had 2 garages quote this week £100 per hour and they said it would be 2-3 hours time depending on how much adjustment is required. Both are with the famed A series guru Pete Baldwin on rolling roads.

No response to my request for the shoulder bag either (private BC email also sent) ...... Blokko are you there??

I changed all my k series hoses at the start of last year - used SFS (Lee Smith) and they were excellent had a slight issue and sorted very efficiently with no drama. I ordered regular kit for my engine with heater (explain type e.g. clayton as hose positions/lengths can differ!) but also extra bespoke length hoses as I was doing the coolant mod at the same time (changing the submarine tube). Don't forget to get the right type of stainless clips which they can provide. Oh ....and they gave the discount as per original bulk buy to members Neil

I'll have the black L7Club black shoulder bag please. Preferably at the dollar rate shown exchange rate is poor .... but assume you intended it to be £10 sterling which is ok by me

Hi Phil - been trying to connect with you via several Blatchat PM's but you may not have checked there for a while .... so hoping this thread auto contacts you .... please read and respond per my request. Ta - Neil

I'd agree with the assessment above and it is the inlet manifold gasket. I had this fail in my 1.4k ss a few years ago - it was a bit more sudden than you and happened while driving thus producing a large white cloud which was effectively steam (key point it was white and not grey with oil burning). I stopped immediately and got a tow home - no additional damage. As others have said not a difficult (or expensive) repair. I hope this is all yours turns out to be.

My tuppence .... many years ago I had a crank position sensor do funny things with the revs when the engine got hotter. Took a while to pin-point but changing it sorted it out (after doing the coil first) - maybe it was already breaking down and some resistance changed when hot..... Anyway after more recent CPS related irregular starting issues these last weeks (and improved electrical knowledge) I suggest you check the following on the CPS: 1) Resistance - should be 12,000 - 14,000 Ohm (recent non-starter was 0.022 Ohm and problem fixed with new one ) 2) Voltage on cranking - mine was about 0.35V which was deemed normal Hope you get there as appreciate the pains of having an electrical issue - mine is 1.4K SS on EU2

I bought one of these BoPower D30 after lots of research. I wanted one that would also cope with a 2.0 diesel as well as our other smaller petrol cars so i went for one with 13600mAh and peak 500A and had an LCD to display charge level vs lights (it also had a decent and clear manual unlike the reviews of many others). Due to spec I was after it's not the smallest but by no means big or heavy but does have a great hard case for all parts. There were less reviews on the Amzn .co.uk site but lots more on the .com. I have tried it and yes it works I did find that some do look very similar but with different Chinese badges and those that had stories of combusting on charging or melting on use (probably due to turning for too long or too quickly which the manual clearly explains) I avoided!