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Sim

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Posts posted by Sim

  1. The standard sender is very exposed ( unless you've fitted the remote mounting version) and very suceptible to damage  - I destroyed 2 going over plates into the company carpark before I realized what was happening .  The symptom is low pressure reading ( or no pressure reading!)

    Simon

  2. You need to make sure that when you attach the rail at the front, that you are not straining the rear connection and causing a leak round the gasket.  You may need to pack the front connection with washer(s) to get the rear attachment flush

     

    Simon

  3. I chose to keep the modifiation as simple as possible. I've followed someone elses instructions, but can't remember who.

    I added a new relay to switch the solenoid.  I used the existing relay in the MFRU to switch the new relay. I used a new short fused wire to power the relay and a new short ground on the relay. I used a new wire to connect the new relay to the started.

    Disconnect the battery.

    Attach the new relay - I fitted mine in front of the battery.

    Detach the thin wire from the solenoid on the starter and connect to new relay terminal 86.

    Connect a new red wire from solenoid to relay terminal 87.

    Connect a red wire with in-line fuse from the  relay terminal 30 to battery +ve terminal along with original cnnections.

    Connect a black wire from relay terminal 85 to battery -ve terminal along with original connections.

    Hopefully all done

     

    Simon

  4. I've installed it recently on a 1999 EU2 without a master cut-off switch. I could go and look at what I did if that would help.

     

    simon

  5.  

    You need this part from caterham :- 

    http://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=143

    This replaced the rail that you have.

    This is like the first of the two you list above, but it has the take off points for temp sensor for ECU and temp sensor for the dash. As Ozzy said, you probably need a longer hosre to connect to the heater.

     The R400 rail is not the right part at all (where's the connection to the engine?!)

    Simon

  6. I've got one that I acquired and few years ago and has been sitting in the garage for the past few years. 

    From a quick struggle with the search engine, looks like the going rate is about £120   if you want it.

    I'm based in Maidenhead -  I could deliver if the weather stays like this and you're not  a million miles away.

     

    Simon

    • from the Emerald web site:-
    • "Please note that this is not a standard computer cable. It is made specifically for our Engine Management System (K6 ECU).

       

      It is also compatible with our earlier K3 ECU."

    • It could easily be a null modem cable ie with pins 2 and 3 swapped and 4,6  and 7, 8 swapped ,but you'd need to ask Emerald -  or see if its in the user guide

     

  7. Quoting evotell: 
    Ok. I raised the front of the car and loosened off one of the hoses, what became apparent very quickly is that all the hoses got hot including the heater hose that goes into the thermostat housing, but the bottom hose stayed cold as did the bottom of the radiator.

     

     

    Isn't this the classic symptom of an airlock?

    I've certainly had this and fixed it by re-bleeding - not had to replace the thermostat

     

    Simon

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