RogNeedham

Ian I think you'll find the company formally know as Unipart....is still called Unipart 😬 your thinking of Xpart.......a Caterpillar Logistics company Rog

Norman to answer your question according to the posting Rob put up when selling the engine it is a: Quarter Master Organic paddle clutch hydraulic sounds like the long term solution - I'm going to try one last attempt with a cable + pedal stop, plenty of copper grease and taking out the rubber gaiter ....here goes Rog

as ever - thanks for the feedback guys ..a bit more info. The first cable that went was the original fitted to the car - that snapped three inches from the end. The second (brand new) one broke because the nipple on the end came off. this third one is yet to be investigated. I have been refitting the rubber shaped 'grommet' in the end of the arm (off the original clutch release arm) - CC tell me that they do not fit that - is this restricting the pivoting motion. When I swapped the engine Rob sent me the clutch arm and different release bearing that Roger King had fitted - so I'm fairly sure i'm using the right bits. I did forget the grease however - so i'll remember that next time. The only other thing is pedal stop - I have got the biting point set quite high and whilst I've got the hang of just dabbing the clutch - the pedal can travel a fair way. any other comments are welcome *thumbup* Rog

originally had a std 1700 Xflow with std clutch and box..no problems. In Jan/Feb of this year I swapped this for an 1800 all steel xflow (Ex Anthony Burgess? I think, Rob Grigsby). Rob told me up front thath the clutch was a cermetallic device which only needed depressing so far.......... having swapped the engine, on the 2nd run the original clutch cable snapped c. 3 inches from the clutch arm end. I the nbought two replacements from CC. The first new cable went within 100 miles...admittedly whilst reversing up a very steep drive (right Mr Blakeman 😬). I replaced this one which lasted a further 700 miles until today when it snapped *mad* I've spoken to Rob who tells me that he never had a problem with his clutch cables...according to CC it is a standard Sierrra cable ( is it 🤔 🤔) What am i doing wrong 🤔...my clutch cable consumption is marginally worse than the fuel consumption (which I Knew about) ideas anyone *confused* *confused* *confused* Rog

let me know if I can move anything? Rog

Sandy I just replaced the whole expansion bottle...from our local scrap yard for £2. I work for the company that owns MGR parts (Cat Logistics) as of one week ago we did not have any in the master warehouse Rog

Zak are you taking orders for lenses only 🤔 Cheers Rog

a good quality mechanical 10bar oil pressure gauge from - preferably one that matches as closely as possible the existing VDO gauge 🤔 Rog

Norm - they're great tyres. your figures are about what I paid at CCM about 2 years ago. good luck Rog

sorry Rob W - Rob G is right 😬 😬 ..got mixed up with all the Robs ❗ ❗ Rog

incredible results in my book Rob - can't see why you upgraded though *tongue* Rog

anyone BTTT Rog

I new bought a 10k rpm tacho from CC parts dept. I've tried to connect it to a Webcon Alpha ECU. When you blip the throttle it only registers a max of 2k rpm. I spoke to Webcon who sent me a step up resistor - which I fitted and no difference Is there a simple fix I'm missing or is there a more fundamental incompatibility issue between both devices 🤔 cheers Rog

cheers Pete - looks ideal and they're perfectly located for a quick trip out at lunchtime from work 😬 Rog 😬

need one of the above to work with a 10 bar VDO gauge - other than waiting for one on ebay - does anyone know where I can get one from 🤔 Rog

Andy I've just put an all steel engine in - 😬 if memeory serves me right - the easiest way to the reverse switch connection is to remove the gear lever and the plate on the transmission tunnel - it should be on the drivers side of the box hope that helps Rog

Mike YHM Rog

looking for a 10bar oil pressure gauge - VDO 50mm Rog

M25 anticlockwise nr Jn18 -in crap weather with hood up Rog

ok....there still something missing. I have the Alpha harness from Rob G that came with his engine. As stated before I have the existing connector from the old Lucas Ignition amplifier under the dash. I still need a switchable power supply. The Alpha/Webcon harness has a brown wire and a black wire which Rob states were connected to the battery. ....so I'm still confused as to how, when I turn the key the car will start 🤔 (I knew the electrics would p**s me off) Rog

JF - I snapped my de dion in June and I was sent the wrong replacement. Make sure you get the tube with the bolts that go through the bar and do not screw into the tube. If you get the newer tube the car will sit too low. Mine took about three weeks to come through. Rog

*thumbup*thanks Peter - I'll give it a go Rog

I have disconnected the Lucas electronic ignition amplifier from the car so I now have a other end of the connector under the dash. Is this now redundant as I understand that the Alpha ECU (P1071 model) has everything the car needs (in case you hadn't guessed I'm crap at electrics *confused*). Having followed other threads the white/black wire in the Lucas unit is for the tacho - how does this now connect 🤔 heeeelp Rog

thanks Norm I'll take a look at DT. Terry the current tacho is the bog standard fitted with the supersprint. Chris Wheeler tells me I need 10k to be on the safe side Rog

I agree with Budgie. The only time my xflow filled the catch tank was on track days as I didn't have dry sump. On normal road use there was never a problem no matter what the revs. Rog