Robin C

Ivaan, I have a rover ECU form a 1998 1800k Supersport. My engine has the coil on the side as described. I have replaced this with an Emerald so it is surplus to my requirements. I'm happy to sell your this but would prefer to keep the imobiliser and plippers.

Wag, I have a Powerspeed exhaust and have recently fitted the Caterham axial starter- there is loads of room - and compared to the old magneton its much easier to fit. Robin.

Many thanks Nig - very useful. The bolts are M4 I've since discovered by visiting Jenveys website - if only all manufacturers provided engineering drawings in such a public manor!!

John, The cams are the standard Supersport ones and the head has not been ported yet - thats next years budget!! Plenty of maps came with the Emerald disc - it might just be a question of picking the best one. I suppose being a bit ignorant in this field I'm concerned of getting the wrong one.

Some help required please from those who have previously carried out this mod.... I am converting a 1.8k Supersport to Jenvey DTH Throttle Bodies, Scouse Airbox and Emerald. I have a few questions: 1) The S/S fuel pressure regulator has a small diameter vacuum pipe connecting to the plenum, then a slightly larger pipe runs from the plenum to the charcoal canister. I am changing the fuel rail to the standard one with integral pressure regulator - is there a need for any vacuum pipes on the standard one? 2) The S/S setup has 2 breather hoses from the cam cover to the plenum. What happens to these hoses with the Jenvey/Scouse configuration? The backplate of the Scouse has a hole in it with a plastic liner - this looks as though it could be for a breather pipe to enter to the "filtered" air space. Am I right? 3) In the S/S configuration a small diameter tube runs from the throttle area to the flame trap then into the Mems - I presume all this is abandoned? 4)The Throttle Position Sensor was screwed to the plastic S/S throttle casing with course thread self tapper type screws. Obviously these wont do to connect it to the Jenveys - does anyone know the correct screw/bolt size? 5) Finally (Map scrounge) - I am unable to get an appointment at Emerald until July. Would anyone be kind enough to send me a map for the configuation I will have: 1.8 K, Jenvey DTH Throttle Bodies, Scouse Airbox, NO IAVC, 4-2-1 Powerspeed Exhaust. Help and advice much appreciated. Robin.

Graham, Thanks for that - Tested and seems to be working ok.

I'm not convinced my battery charger is working correctly - the light is on but is there anything at home? How do you test one - is it as simple as test output current with multimeter? Advice appreciated

Ah-ha - all is clear now Cheers, Robin

Dave, Thanks for that - I'll go and trade-in the rubber band for the proper one! Cheers, Robin.

Dave, Does that apply to a standard head also?

In readiness for fitting Jenveys and not having taken existing plenum off I rushed off to Factor to buy inlet gasket assuming I will need a new one. I was presented with what looks like a complicated rubber band! I doubt this will fir Jenveys - so what gasket should I use? Is it an occasion for "gasket in a tube"? Thanks, Robin

Not actually started stripping (!) yet so could be wrong about tubes (thought I saw at least one though!). Thanks for your help guys - I'll disable the IACV in the software. Tony - what engine have you got - your set up sounds just like mine will be! Which map did you start with prior to RR session? Cheers, Robin

About to install Jenveys onto a 1.8k Supersport EU2 but with few instructions. In reviewing the sensors etc. I'm unsure what happens with the IACV. It seems to currently be attached to the plenum which obviously goes. Should I retain the IACV and if so where does it go - or should I ditch it and fiddle with the map (also installing emerald)? If I ditch it what happens to the pipework? Thanks, Robin.

Wanted - a Standard fuel rail incorporating a standard fuel pressure regulator for 1.8 K series.

Mike, Thanks for that - the inclusion of the word "bodge" makes it all come clear!!! I'll try the "wanted" section for the rail. Cheers, Robin

I'm in the process of upgrading my 1.8 K Supersport, to DHTB's, Emerald, Scouse air box etc. I'm told I need to swop the fuel pressure regulator fitted by Caterham to the supersport for a standard one as fitted to the "non supersport" 1.8k engine. The reason for this change is size, as with a standard regulator the existing fuel rail can be re-used in a new position but the (larger) supersport regulatorwould foul the rail. However This raises a few questions: 1) What is the differance between the two? - other than physical size! 2) Why do Caterham change it on a Supersport engine? - this may be answered by 1 above! 3) what is part number, pressure etc for a EU2 engine. Thanks. Robin.

Yep got mine too - thanks for your efforts Mav.

Mav, Hope its not too late - but I would be interested in a set. Robin.

Could also be interested in 2 Mulsanne B's - subject to Autosport etc etc.

Ewen, Interested in Emerald if Mav hasn't bought it - and I'm near to B'ham. Please email robin.cross@amec.com if still available. Cheers, Robin

Myles, Sorry to cause confusion - I was working from memory which is fading!!!! However ISTR 1/8 bsp and npt are interchangable?! Anyhow it seems like you're sorted. I'm a bit surprised TA don't have a M12x1.5 "end" - I'm sure mine came in 1 piece. Happy fitting! Robin

Myles, I have fitted one of these to a wet sump car. The temp is easy, just insert the SPA sender in lieu of the Caterham one into the Appollo. For the pressure sender the option I used (as recommended by Jonty Lyons) is to obtain from Think a length of aeroquip hose (approx 300mm long) with appropriate fittings at each end. Now, the K-Series pressure sender housing changed in 1998, since then you require an M12 x 1.5 male fitting.(As mine is post 1998 I do not know what size it was before).This screws into the same housing as the filter in lieu of the existing electronic sender. On the other end on the pipe you need an !/8 NPT female fitting to take your SPA sender. An option is to fit a tee here so a low pressure warning switch can also be included attached to a big yellow light on the dash. Once connected the sender is tie wrapped to the chassis at the front of the car in a higher location than the standard one thus offering greater protection. Think should do this for about £18. Good luck

I know I can buy one from Bernard Scouse or Dave Andrews but does anyone have an airbox kit surplus to requirements?

I Used the black stuff that windscreen people use to fit the screens. Go to your local windscreen man and ask for a tube - usually about £6. Also ask for a bottle of the cleaner often referred to as "yellow cap" (for obvious reasons when you see it). This is like tape head cleaner and ideal to clean both the metal of the stay and the underside of the wing. A few small holes drilled in the stay will also help adhesion. Then its a case of sticking them on. It is advisable to wear latex gloves as this stuff sticks like S**t to a blanket and is a b****r to get of anything including skin. You use the tube in a mastic gun, smear a line along the stay, fit the wing and then smear more along the interface, over the stay and generally all around. It sets in approx 3 hours but is not fully cured until 24. good luck. robin

Grim, I'm not sure about the temp, but for pressure a common method is to obtain (From Think automotive) a length of aeroquip hose with M12 fitting on one end, to fit the oil filter housing, and an 1/8 NPT on the other end for the sender. If the pipe is ~300mm long it reaches the "cross" in the lower front of the chasis and is a good location for the sender as it is higher and therefore less prone to being knocked. Think sell these for about £17 but much easier than drilling and tapping etc - provided you can find a simple solution for the temp sender that is. Robin