bobt

Having Caged or Arch drill and weld them in shouldn't be an issue for me then as its going back to arch skinless anyway :-)

I assume Caged also recommend the fitment of the bosses. Hmmm not not sure I'd be happy just drilling through and bolting up either. Frome (bath area) is only about 2 hours from west London. If I trailer'd the car over to them (currently in bits :-) ) do you recon they'd drill and weld them in for me?

 

Cheers

 

Rob

Kevin,

 

Does the Caged version use the same pickup points on the chassis as the Saftey Devices one? Can I also ask how much a Caged cage costs?

 

Thanks

I wonder if Saftey Devices would still make one if asked??

Hi peebs,

 

Is it possible to still get hold of the older SL (hooped) cages? I have a 2000 superlight and would like to get one of original cages (Saftey Devices?) rather than one of the newer Caged variety as I prefer the appearence of the older design.

 

Anybody any info?

 

Thanks Rob

 

Another site for every type of rivet you could need here

So if I'm going to buy a few hundred closed rivets to refit the floors and interior panels etc what size will I need? Is it 4mm x (approx)10mm?

 

Been looking at these here: AD53AH (9.5mm long, max material thickness 4.8mm)

and here AD54AH (11.5mm long, max material thickness 6.4mm)

 

Not sure which ones to go for since the tunnel chassis rails are very small and I don't want to buy a rivet that is too long but obviously needs to be long enough to pin a lowered floor.

 

Thanks

 

Thats the puppy!

Thanks guys - blimey, didn't know that tube is open at the top. The sideskin are rolled round the top of the sill so its impossible to see. Whats the deciding factor as to whether to use Waxoyl or dinitrol in side the tubes?

 

Hmm well I think I'll be buying up a load of closed rivets then as the floors are out (making way for lowered) and the interor panels are on the way out so I could health check the chassis rails, seal off the grot trap and prep for its respray.

Hi peebs,

 

Just had a rather alarming find whilst removing the interior cockpit side panels. I drilled out the most rearward bottom rivet and a small flow (possibly 4-5 tablespoons full) of black gunky water ran out! To help describe the location better, there is a short thick chassis rail that runs diagonally from the rear lower corner of the door sill (where your elbow might rest) to the lower chassis rail just above where the A frame mount is.

This tube has 5-6 rivets in the cockpit to secure the internal panels and maybe 4 rivets on the outer side skin within the rear wheel arch.

 

I've ckecked over everything but cannot see how the water could have got in. Its difficult to tell but I can only imagine its entered via one of the holes in the centre of the rivets within the wheel arch. When fitting rivets you're sometimes left with a hole right through when the shaft pulls out. I would have thought it be common practice to seal the heads of rivets that are exposed like this?

 

I then drilled the same rivet out on the passenger side and got the same result 🙆🏻

 

Anybody else had this or can confirm how the water enters the rail?

 

Cheers

 

Rob

Having stripped all the paint from my nosecone with ease, I can safely say it does no harm to carbon

 

Does anybody happen to know if it will damage powder coating? (I'm hoping not!)

 

Cheers

 

Rob

Lots of good suggestions here

 

I was initially looking to avoid a metallic paint as the current colour Azure blue shows up every darn mark so easily.

However, maybe a much brighter colour will mean they are much less noticeable. I do intend to get both side panels covered in the 3M stuff tho.

The White R500, is that a pearl or metallic paint does anybody know?

 

Rob

Dave, would that be the colour of yours by chance?

 

If you have some pics I'd love to see them

 

Cheers Rob

... but I just can't decide

 

The car is having a complete refresh this winter (Year 2000 superlight) and a respray is on the cards too. Being a superlight it has all the usual carbon body parts with the addition of a skuttle and rear bodywork back panel (from top of rear arch all the way round to the other). The carbon won't be sprayed with the exception of the nose cone leaving the nose band visible. So basically, that means only the bonnet, side panels (up to the top of the rear arches) and a portion of the nose cone will be sprayed.

 

Currently the car is Azure blue which is fine but being metalic and dark coloured its a pain to look after and shows up chips all over it very easily.

 

I've decided I want a much lighter colour and thought maybe white, then thought about kawasaki green, then thought of other very bright colours. Just can't decide.

 

Anybody got any links to brightly coloured caterhams

 

Cheers

 

Rob

Would Arch powder coat stuff if you drop it in? Anybody had it done there?

Thanks guys, just as I hoped.

 

Yep the calipers are comming off front and rear as new side skins being fitted and other such work.

 

Hi,

 

I'm stripping the car down before sending it to Arch for some work. In the process I've spotted a few of the dreaded cracks on the dedion tube around the shock mounts so decided to pull that at the same time and get a replacement. Am I right in thinking I can just unbolt the rear hubs from the dedion to avoid having to remove the drive shafts from the hub? (big tight nuts )

 

So that the shafts are not left flapping about whist Bruce works his magic I'll remove the shafts from the diff but will probably leave the the diff in situ. When I pull the shafts from the diff (do I just pull or is there a circlip?) should I be prepared for the oil to pi$$ out ?

 

thanks

 

Rob

 

 

Thanks coyoteracer11

 

Given that I'm thinking of having the car sprayed a different colour ( only side skins, bonnet and nose cone (leaving the carbon visible for the nose band) everything else is carbon), is it more cost effective to have a new bonnet sprayed rather than prep and spray the original?

 

Thanks

 

Rob

Can you tell which is which by the chassis plate or VIN ?

 

Cheers

 

Rob

Hi peebs,

 

I would ask Arch but they are shut until the new year.

Could anybody give an indication on the cost to:

 

a) fit and spray two new side skins

b) fit driver and pass lowered floor

 

...and will I have to pull the engine before delivering so that they can move it around easily once the front suspension has been removed?

 

cheers

 

Rob

Purely my opinion, but whilst it appears Caterham don't always make the friendliest decision on some maters, I would always prefer them to choose the option which is most likely to keep them in business, alive and kicking! It would be a very sad world without them, especially if they were sunk by the very owners that love these cars persuing legal points with them.

 

2nd that

+1 for JB Weld. I found a threaded boss so drilled a hole in the tank, smothered the thread with JB then put a half nut on the otherside and smothered that too. 3 years on and no problems.

 

Rob

Ah, I see. So I shouldn't need to replace my existing (2000) uprights. Upgrading this makes sense to me once my bearings are up for replacement.

 

Thanks

That's very interesting Roger, never knew about the front hub upgrade. How are the stub axles fixed to the uprights? Will the existing ones be a complete pig to remove?

 

Thanks

Rob